Articles from ‘Balayage’
Thursday, September 29th, 2016
¬† ¬†In the cosmetology industry, it is important to stay knowledgeable on new technologies in hair color and hair products because innovations in ingredients and trends are ever-changing. To that end, Emerson Salon colorists have started to encounter more and more people with sensitivities and allergies to ammonia and PPD and have wanted to broach this issue for our clienteles.
What is PPD?¬†Phenylenediamine (or PPD) is an organic compound used in hair dyes, as well as in rubber chemicals, textile dyes and pigments. Manufacturers like it because it has a low relative toxicity level, high temperature stability, and chemical and electrical resistance. In other words, it helps the new color stay on your hair despite numerous washings, dryings, and stylings. (from¬†http://www.annmariegianni.com/)
Why is PPD “bad?”¬†The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) notes the following:
-PPD is potentially capable of causing multiple toxic effects following skin contact.
-Data from studies of both humans and animals are sufficient to demonstrate that PPD has potent skin-sensitizing properties.
-Several cases of contact dermatitis have been reported following occupational exposure to dyes containing the chemical.
-Studies have also identified the chemical as the third most common ingredient, after fragrances and preservatives, that can cause contact dermatitis from cosmetics (mainly skin-care products, hair preparations and colorants, and facial makeup products).
We listened and have taken on the NEW color line Color.Me Kevin Murphy that is PPD FREE, Ammonia Free, Cruelty free and the ONLY PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) approved hair color line. We are so excited! If you look at the image to the left- you will see a color that prematurely faded on resistant grey hair with ammonia based permanent hair color. Then, observe the after as well as the ZERO fadeage after 3 weeks. WOW! What a difference! Check out more before and afters below!
Here is some more information on its features+ ingredients:
- Color. Me is a performance driven line which means it is highly predictable and has minimal fade-age.
- It has a wonderful rose tea fragrance and barely any chemical smell at all because it is an MEA ammonia derivative and not actual ammonia.
- It causes next to no skin irritation and does not stain like ammonia based hair color.
- ¬†It contains: shea butter, pomengranate, aloe vera, grapeseed oil, panthenol, almond oil (those with allergies to nuts may be sensitive,) coconut oil and most importantly, HONEY!
- The haircolor will never spoil or expire because of the sugars contained in the honey base.
- The line is designed for custom formulation and can be made semi, demi or permanent based on the artistic choices of the colorist as well as the desires of the client.
- ¬†Has 3 types of bleaches: cream/oil based, ammonia based and non-ammonia lighteners give the professional the control to determine how much damage and lift is incurred on the hair.
¬† Want to have Color. Me by Kevin Murphy haircolor for your next all over color or balayage?
Saturday, December 19th, 2015
Emerson Salon houses 7 independently run hair professionals who booth rent as individual businesses.
Esther, D’Arcy, Lancer and Danielle provide cuts and color for men and women and also offer the hand painted highlight technique called, “Balayage”.
All education and additional training is up to the individual stylists to seek out and pay for as their own small business. However, at Emerson we know there are things we can learn and share with each other without having to pay $ (though we all watch tons of youtube video, read articles on trends and attend beauty shows as well.)
Last week, D’Arcy, Danielle and Lancer went over different types of balyage applications.¬†The pictures above show stylists learning how to become more efficient and proficient in the balayage services they already offer. The higher the quality of our work; the higher our rate of return clientele therefore, more earning potential. Some of us have different approaches and ways of doing thing-sharing those ways between us helps to create an Emerson salon space that provides “Happy Hair” every time!
Danielle shared her awesome tips and tricks for blended vertical highlight balayage. D’Arcy shared her how to’s on “sombre” balayage effects for more subtle looks as well as her techniques for all over lighter balayage with root dimension and melted ombre. Lancer provided ideas and thoughts on how to best execute all the techniques reviewed and troubleshooting application technique.
Every chance we get to learn and grow in the hair industry is an opportunity to better serve our clientele and community. Making you happy is our ultimate goal and creating learning opportunities is part of achieving that mission.
Book for a Balayage service with Lancer, Esther, Danielle or D’Arcy at emersonsalon.com!
Thursday, October 1st, 2015
Long hair looks are sultry and give you many, many options for styling. Here we show you some of our favorite long hair styles and haircolors!
- Color: This is a balayage haircoloring service with soft golden dark blond and small flicks of lighter blond through the top and front. Ideally, your hair is medium to dark brown naturally so grow out ¬†and maintenance will be minimalized.
- Styling this: Blow dry with Moroccan Oil Original Treatment for heat protection, shine and moisture. Then apply a Kevin Murphy’s Anti-Gravity Spray before using a large barrel curling iron to create soft curl+wave.
- Finish with flexible Working Spray by Alterna Caviar which contains caviar extract to protect the hair from over drying.
- Color:¬†This is a soft balayage technique on medium dark brown hair. It is possible to achieve this with lifting haircolor on naturally pigmented hair to minimize damage.
- Styling this: Once blown dry with Anti-Gravity lotion by Kevin Murphy, put¬†the hair into 4 slightly loose braids. Take a flatiron and clamp down on the brain from the midshaft to the ends. Allow to cool and release the braids.
- Finish with Moroccan Oil Medium Hold Hairspray..and go!
- Color:¬†This is a soft auburn haircolor with hints of strawberry blond balayage through the front and top.
- Styling this:¬†Blow dry on low speed medium heat from damp with Motion Lotion by Kevin Murphy for curl enhancement and frizz control. Then gather the hair to the side and 3 strand braid close to your neck. Hold the ends and loosen the braid by lightly tugging on the strands.
- Finish by securing the ends with a hair tie and use a curling iron to make bends in through pulled out pieces in front.
- Color: This is an all over color in transluscent medium dark brown with neutral to ash tones.
- Styling this: Blow dry from damp with a large round brush using Moroccan Oil Volumizing Mousse. Apply Dry Shampoo by Alterna Caviar at the roots to help keep volume. Then, back brush with a boar bristle brush 2″ from hair line in 2″ sections and spray with Working Spray. Brush the hairline over the volume and slowly smooth out the bumps spraying again. Secure with a few bobby pins by twisting the hair in the back.
- Finish: Rough up the ends with a little teasing and go!
- Color:¬†This is a soft “sombre” balayage that leaves the natural at the midshaft and subtly blends into 1 level lighter than 2 levels lighter on the ends. This look grows out beautifully and once achieved needs maintenance every 3-4 months.
- Styling This: Use Undressed by Kevin Murphy to slick the hair into a high ponytail. Grab a piece of hair to wrap around the ponytail holder 3- 4 X and bobby pin securely into the base of the ponytail. Now softly make a 3 strand braid and secure with another ponytail holder.
- Finish this by misting with a shine spray like Kendi Oil by Alterna Bamboo for shine on the entire thing.
……OR schedule a styling appointment with one of our independent hair designers and treat yourself to some fun style!
Go to emersonsalon.com now to book online!
Wednesday, September 30th, 2015
Having semi permanent or direct dye color needs constant¬†upkeep to maintain¬†the color¬†
and has no guarantee how long it will last! If a semi permanent fades out, book another paid service to redeposit it.¬†There is also no guarantee on the complete removal of direct dyes….
¬† ¬† ¬†We have had some ladies come in with trendy, vibrant hair colors in their hair ….and wanting to remove them. The vibrant colors (like those in the image below) are direct dyes. It is not as easy as just applying one step and getting what you want (unfortunately we can do great things with hair -but there are limits.) The problem with semi permanents like these is they are not guaranteed to last for longer than 10 shampoos and may be less with pastel hues or on bleach damaged or compromised hair. Ironically, if you want to remove them they can be a real bother!
Direct dyes do not,“¬†require oxidation or developer for the color to stain the hair. In areas where the hair is¬†more porous, this type of color will show greater intensity. Caution must be exercised when utilizing a semi-permanent haircolor on porous hair; it can stain the hair¬†permanently.”¬†(From the American Board of Certified Colorists haircolorist.com)
Sometimes, using strong bleaches will make the direct dye go further into the hair shaft and lodge even more stubbornly inside the hair. There are ways to strategically fade or remove the direct dye but having it professionally done is COLOR CORRECTIVE.(Color correction work includes working with removing artificial pigment, coloring hair with previous color history, or deepening or lightening more than 3 levels. )
There is NO GUARANTEE in removing direct dyes. It may take multiple sessions to achieve- it may even not be possible to completely remove without cutting it out. If its a blue, green, or teal like hue it will be VERY difficult to remove. ¬†
If you want to help the fade along you can do the following:
- Use dish or liquid ¬†laundry detergent with harsh sulfates to aggressively emulsify out the color
- ¬†Add 50o mg of crushed Vitamin C and/or Baking Soda to your professional level sulfate free shampoo (leave on for 45 minutes and rinse+condition)
- Soak your hair in bath salts for 40 minutes then shampoo and condition
If you are asking a stylist to remove it, we recommend asking for a mild bleach+ clarifying shampoo with Olaplex treatment at the shampoo bowl. That way you are removing the color midly with a little insurance against breakage. This can remove some of the color and then the remainder can be bleached out once 90% faded.
****If the above methods do not work****
-take a break and deep condition twice a week before you attempt to remove it again.
And remember….. we may be able to do magic with haircolor but we have no magic wand for every hair situation!
Hairstylists do their absolute best to counsel you on the risks of certain services as well as trying to make you happy….
Have more questions?
Book a color consultation with one of our independent hair designers at www.emersonsalon.com
Thursday, September 24th, 2015
It seems our salon fans love hearing about the inside scoop from stylists within our salon-
so we are doing another SALON CONFESSIONAL!
Why doesn’t my fashion color last past a month?
Many ladies are coming in wanting the trendy purple, teal, pale pinks, lilac or grey “granny hair.” What this entails is bleaching the hair to the lightest possible blond in order for a pastel shade to show up. This may mean that it cannot be achieved in one session depending on what history is already on your hair. Generally, pastel and vivid extreme colors are semi-permanent. Semi-permanents are direct dyes ¬†(meaning they sit on top of the hair) and last between 10-16 shampoos -but may be even less if it is a pastel shade. Pastels have no guaranteed longevity and are completely temporary. It is not the stylist’s “fault” if it doesn’t last as long as you would prefer. The nature of the service can be extremely damaging even on the healthiest of hair and can compromise the hairs’ ability to hold color in addition to the nature of the semi-permanent shade used to create the selected hue. Using appropriate sulfate free, professional level, color safe products assists in keeping the color but does not guarantee how long it will last.
Why is my hair so dry and damaged after I get highlights?
- Bleach is an entirely different chemical process than coloring your hair. Bleach aggressively breaks up the hair’s pigment with chemical explosions and results in breaking apart the hair’s structure. Then, we can go in with a semi, demi or permanent color to create the tonality we wish to make that will assist also in holding the hair’s structure together. Hair can become frizzy and porous with the potential of breakage when bleached. Previously colored hair must be bleached in order for it to become lighter so if you have dark color on your hair, the only choice for a stylist is to use bleach.
Why are men’s haircut prices less than women’s longer hair prices?
- ¬†One of our stylists, Michael Simons has great insight on this with his over 20 years ¬†of experience. “I tell clients that the amount of $ and time I put into training to execute women’s and longer haircuts is extensively more than for men’s shorter haircuts.” With men’s haircuts you are looking at a span of 4-6 weeks between cuts. With women a bad haircut could take years to grow out so the work entailed must be top notch.
- D’Arcy, co-owner of Emerson Salon also adds,”I take into account the amount of time and product (shampoo, conditioner + styling product) used in the service. The more hair left on the head the higher the price of the haircut. Also, the price is also based on the training I received for the service. For example, I spent a few years learning advanced color knowledge and haircutting techniques. For men’s cutting I spent 4-6 months learning how to use clippers appropriately. “
What’s the biggest piece of advice for a client ¬†in your chair?
- Michael Simons says that clients need to feel the liberty to speak up in the chair. “I take it as a compliment when people are able to tell me something they do not like about their cut or color in the chair. You trust me as a professional to take the feedback and try to rectify the problem.”
- No stylist wants you to be unhappy with your hair. Creating a style you are satisfied with needs to come from a space that feels safe for you to communicate. Also, getting defensive about our work does not create long lasting clientele and most hair professionals are able to take the critique with poise and grace. So tell us how you really feel (respectfully of course!) We can handle it!
Have we dispelled some myths for you?
We hope so! We are here to make sure our clients understand what is entailed for their hair services at Emerson Salon. We always recommend researching a new style or hair color before embarking on a new look! Ask your stylist lots of questions in the consultation about pricing, recommended care and maintenance and get the best possible service for you and your budget.
Book with an Emerson Salon independent stylist through their profile today!
go to www.emersonsalon.com and select a stylist to book online!
Thursday, August 13th, 2015
New hair looks get new names. Some ladies in our chair are still learning what balayage and ombre is-
balayage: hand painted highlights ¬†ombre: lighter highlights concentrated on the ends
The newest terms that baffles potential clients minds are the terms “bronde” or “ecaille.”
BRONDE means any soft balayage technique that blends a medium or dark brown base
into a medium/dark gold or warm/medium¬†beige highlight.
The ‘Br’ is the brown and the ‘onde’ is the blonde. The contrast is moderate and tends to grow out very naturally for either black, dark brown or medium brown naturally colored hair. In the salon, we compare these colors to shades of coffee with its balanced, rich tones.
¬†This is a¬†great technique to drop down¬†a dramatic blond balayage or ombre to help add shine+ reflection to hair that is trashed ¬†from too much bleaching or sun fadeage. The color will fill in the negative spaces and plump up the structure to help the hair to style and look better.
This look tends to slowly graduate the dark color from roots to the mid shaft and ends – creating a subtle ombre or “sombre” effect. The difference in contrast between the darker shade should ounly be 1-3 levels only.
ECAILLE or “tortoise shell” combines a medium or dark brown base with soft ¬†strips of medium to light gold balayage highlights in the front and mid-shaft+ends.
The effect is different than bronde. The highlights can be closer to the scalp ¬†and give an overall, defined, dimensional look. This look is great for naturally colored medium brown or ash colored hair. The base color can be bumped up a level and the highlights painted in after. The grow out is a little less soft than bronde¬†and will require the highlights to be maintained every 10 weeks instead of the normal soft balayage growout of 12-14 weeks. The effect will only subtly ombre on the last couple inches of the hair.
Want to try one of these looks on after ¬†a summer of faded haircolor?
Book with one of our independent stylists through their profile at www.emersonsalon.com
“For Style That Works!”
Friday, June 19th, 2015
This time of year is the PERFECT time to try a new haircut or hair color. Why? Because the sun can really show off your new look and amplified confidence!
Here we review some ways to take care of your hair in the heat of the season in addition to some new trends…..
Summer Hair Care:
¬† ¬† ¬†– Make sure you are getting regular trims. You can have your short to medium length hair cut every 5-8 weeks or your medium to long length hair every 8-12 weeks. This will prevent splits from occurring and causing breakage and loss of density and length.
–Use a UV inhibitor when you will be in the sun for longer than 20 min at a time. A good one to use is Moroccan Oil Original Treatment which will not build up on your hair, has anti-oxidants to prevent haircolor from fading and reconditions and moisturizes the hair.
– Make sure to protect¬†your hair before you go swimming in a pool or saltwater. Saltwater and chlorine are highly drying to the hair, can fade or alter haircolor and can also cause breakage+damage with prolonged exposure. A good method to protect your hair’s condition and color is to use a hair conditioner or Moroccan Oil on damp hair and wear a swim cap over it. It will act as a barrier to exposure to these conditions.
–Pre-Schedule regular color appointments.¬†The sun’s UV rays can fade your haircolor even if you are following recommended care and using¬†sulfate free shampoos, conditioners and styling products. So, plan for refreshing that shiny red haircolor or newly toned blond every 6-8 weeks so your hair always looks its best. Don’t take the chance that your stylist can take you when you need and pre-book your color refresh at the end of each service appointment.
SUMMER HAIR TRENDS:
Take a look at some great ways to cut, color and style your hair for summer below!
WOMEN’S¬†TRENDS: Beachy waves on long layered hair, “Lob” haircut, ¬†Long top pixie cut, Side swept bangs, balayage soft strip highlights that are 3 levels lighter than natural or pastelled
MEN’S TRENDS: Tight fade on the sides and long top for side parting (left below), ¬†disconnected clipper cut with heavy weightline (right below)
Or take a look at our Pinterest boards at:¬†https://www.pinterest.com/emerson_salon/
GET THAT NEW ‘DO!
Book with an independently run hairstylist at www.emersonsalon.com¬†so YOU can be on trend this summer-
…and on FLEEK!
Thursday, May 21st, 2015
Wedding season is almost upon us and brides everywhere are prepping for their big day. Whether you are getting married soon or sometime down the line…. Our bridal hair specialist, D’Arcy Harrison, gives you some tips to make sure you look and feel your best on the big day!
#1. Make sure to get a trim and fresh color no less than 2-4 weeks before the big day. Most likely you have been growing your hair to allow for more length in an updo or formal style so it will be necessary to get any split ends off. If you are getting your hair colored we recommend a soft to moderate balayage highlight in order to show off the movement of your hairstyle in pictures. If you have dark hair, highlighting will be essential to seeing the detail of your hair in pictures. Also, if there are any unpredicted hiccups with your hair color there is still time to perfect it with your colorist. D’Arcy urges patience as well,”Sometimes chemicals do unpredictable things even with the most experienced hair colorist. Last thing you want is to be unhappy with a hair color you received a couple days before the wedding when you have no extra time to come back in. Perfection sometimes cannot be achieved in one sitting so prepare for Murphy’s Law and leave a margin for error by getting the color done well enough ahead of time.”
#2. “I highly recommend scheduling a practice 2-4 weeks before the wedding day. It helps get game plan out of the way and helps you to create a solid communication with your stylist before you hit the big day which is usually filled with nervous and excited anxiety,” says D’Arcy. When doing bridal practices, D’Arcy charges a flat rate for 2 hours of work and provides you with pictures of the different looks so can share with family and friends. If you cannot schedule a practice its always good to send your stylists a couple looks of what you are going for in addition to a picture of what your hair looks like now.
#3 Don’t ¬†allow the pressures of family or friends to alter how you want to look and feel on your wedding day.¬†We’ve all been there. Your mom or bridesmaid comes to the salon with you to get your hair done and has their own idea of how you need to look. “Remember, its YOUR day and if you feel uncomfortable with their suggestions make sure they know not to worry and that you and your stylist have already discussed what you would like,” advises D’Arcy. Last thing you want is tension and drama about your hair when its how you have envisioned looking for over 6 mos. to longer. Of course, if you agree with them on some feedback on your¬†hair make sure to tell the stylist you think that is a good idea and to adjust the style for you accordingly.
#4 Always bring pictures!¬†Bring the pictures you want to use as a guide for the type of look and style you are going for. Bring the pictures of the practice (even if another stylist did it) and you can even bring pictures of looks you despise so it is really clear what you like and do not like.
#5 Make sure to tip!¬†Gratuity is not required but strongly encouraged. Yes, you are already paying the stylist for a pricey look but you have to consider how well they attended to you. Did they make you and your group feel welcomed and comfortable? Did they make you feel beautiful and confident? Did they listen? Did you enjoy the experience? Did they make sure you were happy with every angle? Did they take feedback? Did they excercise patience and poise? If so, they have accomplished exceeding your expectations and deserve an 18-20% gratuity.
#6 Opting for on-site styling is more expensive but sometimes logistically easier.¬†Many bridal specialists offer on-site styling. If you decide that this is right for you it is usually charged by the hour or by day rate (12 hours or more.) A stylist needs a standing mirror and an easily accessible outlet for heat tools. ¬†If your wedding is far away from the salon where the stylist is from, it will be necessary to arrange travel and travel expenses/accommodations in addition to the hair styling fee. ¬†If you have a large group of bridesmaids you want to look similar its a good idea to ask if the hairstylist has a colleague or assistant to help churn out the styling in an expedient time frame.
#7 Do your research.¬†Ask your friends who have gotten married if they liked the stylist they worked with or go online and read reviews and look at a stylist’s portfolio. “Putting the time into finding the formal stylist who will work best with you and the type of style you want to achieve will be key.”
We hope your big day is happy and filled with joy!
For ideas on formal styles, go to D’Arcy’s Pinterest page at:
or go to www.darcyhairdesign.com to book a bridal practice with her!
Thursday, May 7th, 2015
In the cosmetology profession it is very important to stay current not only on trends and new application techniques but new innovations in chemical technology. There is a new system that is making hair colorists go NUTS! Its called OLAPLEX.
The system was designed by organic chemists who wanted to “solve problems” and the biggest challenge facing the haircoloring industry is the issue of breakage. More and more, people are asking for trends that demand getting the hair lighter, faster and with less breakage.
This is where Olaplex comes in. Hair is keratin proteins that are made up of disulfide bonds. These bonds are linked together and can get broken down during a lightening or haircoloring service. This system helps mend those bonds as they are broken so hair can accept more extreme changes with less likelihood of breakage. Its important to understand that it doesn’t guarantee against breakage but minimizes its probability.
Famous colorists from Tracy Cunningham, Guy Tang, Sally Hershberger and many others have been experimenting with the 3 step system and are loving the results.¬†One of our owners, D’Arcy Harrison, picked some up to try and was impressed with the results.
Kristen had Natural Level 5 hair and wanted to try the new extreme color ombre trend. In order to achieve the look she asked for it required lifting the hair over 3 levels through some very orange and gold stages. The goal was to get her hair to level 10 and 11 so the semi-permanent blue/violet and silver would show up appropriately.
NOTE: Whenever the hair is lightened or darkened 3 levels or more this is called “COLOR CORRECTIVE WORK.” Special care and expertise is required in order to achieve predictable results. Additionally, the service can cost more because of extra time and product used due to its corrective nature.
D’Arcy combined the It&lyHairfashion Easily Blond Bleach and 40 vol with the No. 1 Olaplex Bond Multiplier. She then applied the bleach in a feathered balayage technique and put Kristen under heat for 10 min.
D’Arcy was amazed! The hair on the ends was a level 10 and the midshaft was a level 7/8. So D’Arcy mixed up some more bleach and olaplex and applied to the darker areas and let process for another 20 min. at air temperature. Then the hair was rinsed and the No.2 Bond Perfector was added at the shampoo bowl for 5-10min. The hair was then roughly dried and the Pravanna Vivids Blue and Violet were applied to the midshaft with Silver with a dash of Blue blended into the ends. Kristen was put under a medium heat dryer to drive in the semipermanent in order to make it last longer. The entire service was over 3 hours long. There is a No.3 to the Olaplex system for at home care following the service but Kristen opted for some Moroccan Oil Hydrating Shampoo, Conditioner and Weightless Hydrating Mask as the argan oil moisture helps hair stay flexible and not brittle.
Kristen did suffer some breakage on the last 2 inches of her hair ¬†(it was coiling and turning gummy) so D’Arcy did some strategic cutting and carving to eliminate the damage from the hair once dried and styled. But what is important is the hair got lighter faster, with less breakage and with more even results.
We will continue to keep experimenting in the salon with it as its very important to understand how to work with new products before using them on paying clients. If an individual indepependently run stylist ¬†at Emerson Salon chooses to add this as an amenity it could be an add-on charge to any coloring service.
Want Olaplex at Emerson Salon? Tell us via our Twitter or Facebook pages!