In the cosmetology profession it is very important to stay current not only on trends and new application techniques but new innovations in chemical technology. There is a new system that is making hair colorists go NUTS! Its called OLAPLEX.
The system was designed by organic chemists who wanted to “solve problems” and the biggest challenge facing the haircoloring industry is the issue of breakage. More and more, people are asking for trends that demand getting the hair lighter, faster and with less breakage.
This is where Olaplex comes in. Hair is keratin proteins that are made up of disulfide bonds. These bonds are linked together and can get broken down during a lightening or haircoloring service. This system helps mend those bonds as they are broken so hair can accept more extreme changes with less likelihood of breakage. Its important to understand that it doesn’t guarantee against breakage but minimizes its probability.
Famous colorists from Tracy Cunningham, Guy Tang, Sally Hershberger and many others have been experimenting with the 3 step system and are loving the results. One of our owners, D’Arcy Harrison, picked some up to try and was impressed with the results.
Kristen had Natural Level 5 hair and wanted to try the new extreme color ombre trend. In order to achieve the look she asked for it required lifting the hair over 3 levels through some very orange and gold stages. The goal was to get her hair to level 10 and 11 so the semi-permanent blue/violet and silver would show up appropriately.
NOTE: Whenever the hair is lightened or darkened 3 levels or more this is called “COLOR CORRECTIVE WORK.” Special care and expertise is required in order to achieve predictable results. Additionally, the service can cost more because of extra time and product used due to its corrective nature.
D’Arcy combined the It&lyHairfashion Easily Blond Bleach and 40 vol with the No. 1 Olaplex Bond Multiplier. She then applied the bleach in a feathered balayage technique and put Kristen under heat for 10 min.
D’Arcy was amazed! The hair on the ends was a level 10 and the midshaft was a level 7/8. So D’Arcy mixed up some more bleach and olaplex and applied to the darker areas and let process for another 20 min. at air temperature. Then the hair was rinsed and the No.2 Bond Perfector was added at the shampoo bowl for 5-10min. The hair was then roughly dried and the Pravanna Vivids Blue and Violet were applied to the midshaft with Silver with a dash of Blue blended into the ends. Kristen was put under a medium heat dryer to drive in the semipermanent in order to make it last longer. The entire service was over 3 hours long. There is a No.3 to the Olaplex system for at home care following the service but Kristen opted for some Moroccan Oil Hydrating Shampoo, Conditioner and Weightless Hydrating Mask as the argan oil moisture helps hair stay flexible and not brittle.
Kristen did suffer some breakage on the last 2 inches of her hair (it was coiling and turning gummy) so D’Arcy did some strategic cutting and carving to eliminate the damage from the hair once dried and styled. But what is important is the hair got lighter faster, with less breakage and with more even results.
We will continue to keep experimenting in the salon with it as its very important to understand how to work with new products before using them on paying clients. If an individual indepependently run stylist at Emerson Salon chooses to add this as an amenity it could be an add-on charge to any coloring service.
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