Articles from ‘Deep Conditioning’

Friday, July 14th, 2017

Direct Dye Dilemmas

 

We’ve had an upsurge of clients coming in with trendy, vibrant hair colors in their hair, and wanting to remove them. The vibrant colors (like those in the image below) are direct dyes. It is not as easy as just applying one step and getting what you want (unfortunately we can do great things with hair -but there are limits.) The problem with semi permanents like these is they are not guaranteed to last for longer than 10 shampoos and may be less with pastel hues or on bleach damaged or compromised hair. Ironically, if you want to remove them they can be a real bother!

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Direct dyes do not require oxidation or developer for the color to stain the hair. In areas where the hair is¬†more porous, this type of color will show greater intensity. Caution must be exercised when utilizing a semi-permanent haircolor on porous hair; it can stain the hair¬†permanently.”¬†(From the American Board of Certified Colorists haircolorist.com)

 

Sometimes, using strong bleaches will make the direct dye go further into the hair shaft and lodge even more stubbornly inside the hair. There are ways to strategically fade or remove the direct dye but having it professionally done is COLOR CORRECTIVE.

(Color correction work includes working with removing artificial pigment, coloring hair with previous color history, or deepening or lightening more than 3 levels. )

There is NO GUARANTEE in removing direct dyes. It may take multiple sessions to achieve- it may even not be possible to completely remove without cutting it out. If its a blue, green, or teal-like hue, it can be VERY difficult to remove.  

If you want to help the fade along you can do the following:

  • Use dish or liquid ¬†laundry detergent with harsh sulfates to aggressively emulsify out the color
  • ¬†Add 50o mg of crushed Vitamin C and/or Baking Soda to your professional level sulfate free shampoo (leave on for 45 minutes and rinse+condition)
  • Soak your hair in bath salts for 40 minutes then shampoo and condition

If you are asking a stylist to remove it, we recommend asking for a mild bleach+ clarifying shampoo with Olaplex treatment at the shampoo bowl. That way you are removing the color mildly, with a little insurance against breakage. This can remove some of the color and then the remainder can be bleached out once 90% faded.

****If the above methods do not work****

-Take a break, and deep condition your hair twice a week before attempting to remove it again.

And remember…we may be able to do magic with haircolor, but we have no magic wand for every hair situation!

Hairstylists do their absolute best to counsel you on the risks of certain services as well as trying to make you happy…

Have more questions?

Book a color consultation with one of our independent hair designers at www.emersonsalon.com today!

Wednesday, January 6th, 2016

Hair Resolutions 2016

 

Are you making changes for 2016? Well, we have some ideas to help create and maintain beautiful hair in the New Year for you!

heattoolsMake a resolution to be smarter when using your heat tools: 

-Use heat tools that use ceramic or tourmaline plates that help maintain your cuticle layer with controls that allow you to adjust the temperature. An on or off switch shows you no indication as to what level of damage you may be doing to your hair. We recommend digital heat tools that show you specifically what temperature range you are in.

-Always use a thermal protectant. We hear from a lot of clients that they are curling or flat ironing without a barrier to heat damage. Doing this can cause holes in your outer hair structure and make it difficult for your hair to retain quality moisture ¬†and haircolor in your hair. We recommend MoroccanOil’s Original Treatment or Nourishing Oil By Loma. They are dry oils, are conditioning and will prevent high heat from burning your cuticle layer.

-Control the temperature for your hair type. There is no need to use over 350 degrees on fine, delicate hair. Thicker hair needs 400-450 degrees.

-If your hair is fine or chemically damaged DO NOT use the flatiron to curl your ends. It creates too much stress on the hair and will make it break 5x faster.

trimDedicate yourself to regular hair trims, color refreshes, and deep conditioning.

-Hair trims are your best defense against split ends. Even if you are growing your hair out longer it is a good idea to keep the ends freshened up so the oldest hair is not prone to breakage. For short to medium hair schedule every 4-7 weeks. For medium to long hair schedule every 6-10 weeks.

-Does your color get dull and murky looking after about 6-8 weeks? Schedule a conditioning color refresh with your colorist. Some shades (like semi permanents, reds and pastels) fade quicker and need more maintenance to keep them looking shiny and saturated. If you recently received a bleach and tone it will be necessary to keep it toned regularly to battle brassiness or maintain tonal stability.

-You can schedule a deep conditioning treatment with a hair designer or you can do one at home. In salon treatments tend to last longer because some of them use heat to penetrate to the structure inside the hair. We recommend MoroccanOil’s Restorative Hair Masque or Intense Hydrating Masque. These are easy to do at home once a week for dry or damaged hair in 5-15 minutes. Using moisture or moisture with protein will assist in keeping your hair’s health and manageability. (Some stylists use a disulfide mending OLAPLEX in salon as a treatment. Inquire at Emerson Salon with D’Arcy ¬†for this service.)

Make sure to listen to your hair professional’s recommendations

on professional products for your hair type.

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mo -Stylists work with many, many heads of hair a day and know which products will work best for your hair type and styling regimen. So listen and learn!

-Products sold from a professional salon are the highest quality, do not contain extra water and are more concentrated than other store brands. Don’t trust Amazon, Bartell’s, CVS or Costco for your hair products. They could be expired, contain high levels of bacteria or be counterfeit.

-Your stylist makes the recommendations that will help you recreate the look done inside the salon. Reward them by giving them the sale and not an online outlet or store. Your stylist has your hair’s health and style as a high priority in order for you to become or stay a returning customer.

-If a product doesn’t work for you, ask if you can exchange the product for one that does. No sense in keeping a product that you do not like the smell or isn’t optimal for you.

Your “Hair Resolutions” in 2016 can be upheld if you follow these easy steps. And remember- your hair is an investment! The more you put into your hair, the happier you will be with it!

Saturday, November 7th, 2015

Loma Conscientious Personal Care Products

 

Meet Emerson Salon‚Äôs newest haircare line addition: Loma Haircare.¬†Loma products work great, smell great, and are very economically priced and locally made (in Monroe, WA). Loma also prints their own bottles, blends their own products, and fills their own bottles, which makes the company ‚Äúone of the last independently owned and operated brands in the professional beauty industry actually manufacturing 100% of its own products.‚ÄĚ

2015_Loma_Products

Loma believes in Renewable, Sustainable Beauty; containing naturally healing, organic ingredients and essential oil based fragrances that embrace this belief.¬†‚ÄúLoma pioneered and set the standard for the use of Certified Organic Aloe Vera Gel, the primary base for all Loma products.‚ÄĚ

Aloe Leaf

 

Loma has been around since 1991, and the company used to have 2 lines: Pearatin and Loma. Hair Guy Lancer, Emerson Salon co-owner, had used Peratin in the past (2004-2006), and a few of his clients really loved one particular product, ‚ÄúPearatin Fortifying Repairative Serum‚ÄĚ. It really is one of the stand-out products in the line, and it has since been re-named ‚ÄúFortifying Repairative Tonic‚ÄĚ.¬†This product is phenomenal. It improves hair‚Äôs ¬†elasticity, which eliminates breakage, improves the hair‚Äôs condition and integrity, resulting in less breakage due to over-use of heat and chemical processes, and in fewer split ends. This tonic will help your hair stay nice and smooth when blowdrying at home. ¬†

Pearatin

“I love this stuff! Since I’ve started using it, I get tons of compliments about the softness and shine of my hair. Unlike all the other serums I’d tried, this one doesn’t weigh my hair down and it doesn’t have an overpowering chemical smell. Highly recommend this serum for all types of hair.” –From makeupalley.com

When Loma had the two lines, it was very confusing! Though Loma’s product lines consolidated, and their packaging changed, the ingredients remain the same. Loma now is a clearly defined line that’s in keeping with their organic heritage and Aloe Vera based products, and they’re much easier to understand and use (also, they only kept the best products from each line!) If you have any questions for Loma, join their Facebook Community, and ask away!

Wednesday, April 29th, 2015

Pro’s and Cons Of Pastel Hair

 

We have seen such a surge in requests for pastel hair color lately! With mainstream celebrities like Nicole¬†Richie, Julianne Hough, Hilary Duff, Katy Perry, Cara Delevigne and others trying on the trendy look – its hard to resist diving in too! Here we detail the fun AND¬†the reality of going for a super light fun shade like seen below……….

 

 

palepurplepasteltealpastelmauve

 

PRO’s of Pastel Hair

You are “ON FLEEK!” Be part of a current trend and the envy of your friends!

Its non committal! Have fun with different pastel shades when you feel like something different once it fades. Or you can play with hair chalk or sprays to try on a pastel hue for a night!

Spring/Summer are a great time to show off this color change because pastels reflect sunlight beautifully!

CON’s of¬†Pastel Hair

Most hair needs to bleached first to super light/white blond in order for a pastel to show up properly.¬†Darker shades and previously colored hair will need to be bleached significantly to get to a blond without orange or gold in it. This can cause damage and makes it difficult to guarantee how long a pastel will last. The more damage incurred the quicker a pastel may fade because of the hairs’ porosity. We recommend prepping your hair 1-2 weeks before bleaching with deep conditioning treatments as well as following a bleach and tone service. We love the Deep Quench Moisture Masque by ColorProof-it can rehab the most damaged hair and is also vegan and gluten free.

It is important to know that any pastel cannot be guaranteed how long it will stay in the hair. Pastels are usually a semi permanent which stains the cuticle layer of the hair and washes out every time it is rinsed or shampooed.   There is also a lot less pigment deposit in a pastel than a fully concentrated color.

-Listen intently to your colorist.¬†Your stylist can recommend ways to keep the color looking fresh. Schedule regular color refresh appointments so you never look dull or lackluster¬†Most people with vibrant color avoid shampooing their hair as much as possible by using dry shampoo in between washing. We love Alterna Caviar’s Powder Dry Shampoo. At Emerson Salon, a colorist can design a custom color formulated conditioner by EVO Fabuloso Pro to help increase the longevity of a pastel.

Your haircolor is an investment.¬†Getting a pastel haircolor can be expensive to get and expensive to maintain. Be prepared that the service isn’t the only place where your dollars are involved. Appropriate shampoo, conditioner, deep conditioning and leave-in products will be essential to maintaining your fun, new haircolor as well as its health.

Sunlight is your haircolor’s enemy.¬†The summer UV rays will eat through your pastel haircolor so protect it with a UV protectant like Moroccan Oil. It also moisturizes the hair and protects from heat styling so it is your GO TO PRODUCT to keep your hair looking and feeling good after receiving a pastel with bleaching and toning.

Hopefully we have prepared you for the true nature of getting that AWESOME new pastel hair you’re dying for and we will see you in the chair! Book with an Emerson Stylist by contacting one directly TODAY!

 

 

Monday, December 22nd, 2014

Last Minute Holiday Gift Ideas!

Still have a friend, partner, business associate or family member to shop for? Well, have no fear! There aren’t hords of shopping lines at Emerson Salon on Capitol Hill! We have some great gift ideas for that style conscious person on your list…..

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We are carrying two AWESOME gift sets.

-The first is from the Australian line Kevin Murphy (first above) and contains the fabulous Angel series of shampoo and conditioner. These products are great for those with fine hair who want quality products that do not weigh their hair down. It contains grapefruit peel oil, hydrolized oat protein, sunflower seed extract, and lavender extract. Its paraben and sulfate free and has tons of antioxidants to avoid color fadeage. As an added bonus, you get the Angel. Masque that is a great way to rehab hair right after a color service or too much heat styling or sun exposure on vacation!

-Our other gift set is from the Italian line, Davines (lower above.) The Love Smoothing set is great for the dry and frizzy hair types. The shampoo uses Indian fig extract to moisturize your hair while olive amphoacetate gently cleanses. Also noteworthy: the softening olive oil peg-7 ester and strengthening rice proteins. The conditioner uses  a targeted combo of silicone-infused moisturizers works to gently whip your hair into shape, borage seed oil protects against breakage, and rice wax helps prevent parched strands. Lastly, the  protective silicone and antioxidant-rich roucou oil helps give the hair and immediate boost of health.

If these sets aren’t suitable, try designing your own gift set! We carry Moroccan Oil, Kevin Murphy, Davines, ¬†Color Proof, some Evo, and some Brazilian Blowout products. Feel free to mix and match a shampoo. conditioner and styling product based on their hair type. We are happy to help guide your choices to best suit the person on your shopping list! We will put all the products in a nice bag and you can add a little tissue and a bow and you are done! Easy peasy!

Never fret when it comes to buying hair products- because Emerson Salon’s independent stylists are here to help you every step along the way!

Wednesday, December 3rd, 2014

A Winter of Dry Hair Issues!

beauty-tip-frizzy-hair

 Its that wintery time of year! Being trapped in indoor heat all day and then, braving the cold winds of winter can really do a number on the condition of your hair. If you feel like your hair is starved for moisture and TLC, use some of these tips to rehab it back to health!

  1. Remember, you do NOT have to shampoo every day. You can rinse your hair with warm to hot water to move the oils down the hair shaft. This will allow your hair to coat your hair naturally and to eliminate that greasy feeling at the scalp. Using a dry shampoo also can assist you to eliminate oils between shampoos.
  2. Use appropriate shampoos and conditioners for your hair type. Avoid sulfates and remember thicketr/coarser hair needs extra moisture where finer hair needs lightweight conditioning that won’t weight it down. We are loving Kevin Murphy’s Hydrate.Me series that uses a kakadu plum that add moisture for all textures!
  3.  Apply leave-in conditioner or dry argan oil to the mid-shaft to ends on a daily basis. If you heat style you could make sure to do it twice a day- once before heat styling and once before bed. We recommend Moroccan OilРit is also great for holding color and cutting down on blow dry time those early mornings before work.
  4. Use a satin pillowcase to stop hair frizz from being created while you toss and turn while sleeping. Cotton pillowcases will draw moisture away from your hair and dry it out more.
  5. Avoid high heat tools and blow dryers.¬†A medium setting will take longer but your hair’s condition will not suffer from the shock of being forced to dry/style so quickly. Also, high heat can cause frizz by burning your hairs’ outside cuticle layer which will create a peeling effect. The less frizz you make- the less you have to work to manage it.
  6. Try an at home hair mask of avocado or coconut oil to boost your hairs’ moisture content. If not, we love the Weightless Hydrating Masque from Moroccan Oil.¬†It improves elasticity, shine and manageability and only takes 7 minutes with no heat.

Hopefully these tips will have you feeling better about your hair during the winter freeze!

sleek

 

 

Tuesday, October 21st, 2014

Sunsets on Blond

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Light and bright blond is super fashionable and seen on many music artists and performers (see Iggy Azalea above). The downsides are the constant maintenance to rid yourself of root growout but also the damage to your hair.  Unless you are already a medium light blond the process to get to a platinum blond are drying and cause frizz, loss of natural texture/curl and breakage.

Now that it’s fall, there are choices you can make to “reign” the blond in. One option is to color all over with a warm balanced gold ¬†(see left below) or balanced beige that is ¬†1 or 2 levels deeper (depending on your coloring.) This step down shade can fill in some of the damage and provide a healthier palette to color on later.

goldblonddimensional-blonde-highlights

Another choice to use for someone with ¬†darker natural root color is to transition with a balayaged lowlight (see right above.) This shouldin a shade that is 2-3 levels darker and incorporates enough soft warmth mixed with a cool beige or neutral to avoid any unfortunate fadeage. In lamens’ terms this means that color correction is used in the formulation. An over processed/light blond cannot be colored with the desired shade alone. The porosity is more likely to grab the blue or green if enough gold or warm brown¬†is not¬†used in mixing the custom shade.

This lowlight balayage service could be applied in¬†many ways to design your new dimensional blond to your preference. You could ask for lots of little pieces softly painted all over the head to mute the overall look of the light blond. ¬†Or you could ask to mute the base of your color with a more “ombre” effect where the mid shaft to ends stay light and the roots to midshaft are muted (see below.) This is more of a color correction and will need more time and color to achieve on a super light blond for reasons stated previously. Pricing may be shifted in regards to this away from a basic balayage due to the amount of color needed to achieve the effect. A step down color will need to be applied first to before¬†the desired medium dark brown shade ¬†is added. After this is achieved, the lighter dimension can be toned a medium gold to lessen the contrast with the base color.

blond ombre

Feeling sunbleached and need to change your blond? Check out our independent stylists’ profiles and contact them specifically today!

Monday, September 22nd, 2014

What Is Color Correction?

Color Correction is one of the most technically challenging services to accomplish as a colorist. ¬†Many factors are involved when executing this service including hair’s ¬†chemical history, length, porosity and density.

Color correction can be time consuming- it can take anywhere from 2 -5 hours depending on desired result. We recommend always booking a consultation prior to booking a color correction in order for your hair to be analyzed and assessed by your stylist for your desired shade. Also, each of our stylists are independent so it will be important to inquire as to what color line they intend to use. Some of our stylists use It&ly Hairfashion that is 98% naturally derived and has tons of essential oils and botanicals that assist in conditioning the hair.   It is very important that the stylist knows the color line they work with very well in addition to a working knowledge of color theory and the color wheel.

For example: To counteract orange a colorist may use a blue/ash tone to cancel out warmth as it is opposite orange on the color wheel.

Color Correction follows under the following three categories:

  • Deepening hair color more than 3 shades all over
  • Lightening artificial pigment and/or box color all over
  • Lightening hair color more than 3 shades all over
  • Correcting undesirable color on compromised, damaged or previously colored hair

When deepening the hair color more than 3 shades:  An example of this is when a client would like to take their lighter blond hair to a darker shade like dark chocolate or natural black (like seen on Katy Perry above.)  Taking hair to the desired shade on overly porous or damaged hair that has been lightened previously without a trained professional is not advised .

In order to achieve consistent color saturation that won’t fade unevenly or in odd tones you must add the warmth back in first. Example: A light blond will need to be stepped down with copper before applying the desired chestnut brown. If hair is extremely damaged it may be necessary to come back in a month to redeposit the desired shade because of the damage on the hair and not due to the inability of the colorist. Sometimes the hairs’ damage supersedes accurate coloring techniques.

Lightening artificial pigment or¬†Lightening hair color more than 3 shades all over: When getting your hair bleached it is important to know why it is necessary. Color does not lift artificial color and getting more than 3 or 4 levels of lift on natural hair is usually not possible using ¬†lifting hair color. Bleach is a different chemical process than permanent oxidative haircolor. It uses a higher ammonia content and chemical “explosions” in the hair’s structure to break up the pigment living inside. Then the hair can be toned to counteract or enhance the raw tone in the hair that has been exposed. (Above you can see the 7 stages of bleaching that shows the shades bleached hair moves through.) A lot of the time clients want to avoid the red orange ¬†in the hair ¬†(also known as “brassiness”) and a blue or blue green based color can be used to neutralize it.

We also advise color correction lighter clients to be prepared for dry, frizzy hair to emerge after bleaching. On certain hair types this can cause breakage if there is a complicated color history to the hair.

Regarding bleaching through artificial hair color with old highlights underneath: This will cause “compounded damage,” which means there is a higher risk of breakage in addition to unpredictable color results. If you covered up old highlights with dark box¬†color it is very hard to remove because box color uses cheaper pigments . Cheaper pigments are very challenging ¬†to strip out and may need more processing time or repeated bleaching sessions.

****Correcting undesirable color on compromised, damaged or previously colored hair can also be corrective. ****

Damaged hair is porous and can “suck up” colors too dark, too brown, too cool, and will have a risk of fadeage. Hair that is porous has lots of holes in the hair’s structure +cuticle. This condition can make it EXTREMELY difficult to get a guaranteed or desirable result.

When receiving color correction we recommend the following:

Use appropriate professional level, paraben +sulfate free, color safe shampoos and conditioners. Drugstore brands contain 85% water, waxes, parabens, and although may say they are color safe they do not work as effectively. You invested in a new color- so make sure to maintain it with recommended products! We are loving Moroccan Oil Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner as they make even the most damaged hair behave for you  better.

Bring home a deep conditioning treatment like Moroccan Oil Restorative Mask to help rehab your hair so the color will stay longer in addition to repairing damage with argan oil and a little protein.

Use a good leave in product like Moroccan Oil  or Moroccan Oil Light. The antioxidants and U.V. inhibitor properties will help protect your new color from fadeage and also acts as a great thermal protectant during heat styling.

Lookin’ to dramatically change your haircolor? Book with an Emerson Salon Stylist ¬†by contacting them specifically for a consult!