Articles from ‘Hair Color’
Thursday, September 29th, 2016
¬† ¬†In the cosmetology industry, it is important to stay knowledgeable on new technologies in hair color and hair products because innovations in ingredients and trends are ever-changing. To that end, Emerson Salon colorists have started to encounter more and more people with sensitivities and allergies to ammonia and PPD and have wanted to broach this issue for our clienteles.
What is PPD?¬†Phenylenediamine (or PPD) is an organic compound used in hair dyes, as well as in rubber chemicals, textile dyes and pigments. Manufacturers like it because it has a low relative toxicity level, high temperature stability, and chemical and electrical resistance. In other words, it helps the new color stay on your hair despite numerous washings, dryings, and stylings. (from¬†http://www.annmariegianni.com/)
Why is PPD “bad?”¬†The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) notes the following:
-PPD is potentially capable of causing multiple toxic effects following skin contact.
-Data from studies of both humans and animals are sufficient to demonstrate that PPD has potent skin-sensitizing properties.
-Several cases of contact dermatitis have been reported following occupational exposure to dyes containing the chemical.
-Studies have also identified the chemical as the third most common ingredient, after fragrances and preservatives, that can cause contact dermatitis from cosmetics (mainly skin-care products, hair preparations and colorants, and facial makeup products).
We listened and have taken on the NEW color line Color.Me Kevin Murphy that is PPD FREE, Ammonia Free, Cruelty free and the ONLY PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) approved hair color line. We are so excited! If you look at the image to the left- you will see a color that prematurely faded on resistant grey hair with ammonia based permanent hair color. Then, observe the after as well as the ZERO fadeage after 3 weeks. WOW! What a difference! Check out more before and afters below!
Here is some more information on its features+ ingredients:
- Color. Me is a performance driven line which means it is highly predictable and has minimal fade-age.
- It has a wonderful rose tea fragrance and barely any chemical smell at all because it is an MEA ammonia derivative and not actual ammonia.
- It causes next to no skin irritation and does not stain like ammonia based hair color.
- ¬†It contains: shea butter, pomengranate, aloe vera, grapeseed oil, panthenol, almond oil (those with allergies to nuts may be sensitive,) coconut oil and most importantly, HONEY!
- The haircolor will never spoil or expire because of the sugars contained in the honey base.
- The line is designed for custom formulation and can be made semi, demi or permanent based on the artistic choices of the colorist as well as the desires of the client.
- ¬†Has 3 types of bleaches: cream/oil based, ammonia based and non-ammonia lighteners give the professional the control to determine how much damage and lift is incurred on the hair.
¬† Want to have Color. Me by Kevin Murphy haircolor for your next all over color or balayage?
Wednesday, January 6th, 2016
Are you making changes for 2016? Well, we have some ideas to help create and maintain beautiful hair in the New Year for you!
-Use heat tools that use ceramic or tourmaline plates that help maintain your cuticle layer with controls that allow you to adjust the temperature. An on or off switch shows you no indication as to what level of damage you may be doing to your hair. We recommend digital heat tools that show you specifically what temperature range you are in.
-Always use a thermal protectant. We hear from a lot of clients that they are curling or flat ironing without a barrier to heat damage. Doing this can cause holes in your outer hair structure and make it difficult for your hair to retain quality moisture ¬†and haircolor in your hair. We recommend Moroccan Oil Original Treatment or Nourishing Oil By Loma. They are dry oils, are conditioning and will prevent high heat from burning your cuticle layer.
-Control the temperature for your hair type. There is no need to use over 350 degrees on fine, delicate hair. Thicker hair needs 400-450 degrees.
-If your hair is fine or chemically damaged DO NOT use the flatiron to curl your ends. It creates too much stress on the hair and will make it break 5x faster.
-Hair trims are your best defense against split ends. Even if you are growing your hair out longer it is a good idea to keep the ends freshened up so the oldest hair is not prone to breakage. For short to medium hair schedule every 4-7 weeks. For medium to long hair schedule every 6-10 weeks.
-Does your color get dull and murky looking after about 6-8 weeks? Schedule a conditioning color refresh with your colorist. Some shades (like semi permanents, reds and pastels) fade quicker and need more maintenance to keep them looking shiny and saturated. If you recently received a bleach and tone it will be necessary to keep it toned regularly to battle brassiness or maintain tonal stability.
-You can schedule a deep conditioning treatment with a hair designer or you can do one at home. In salon treatments tend to last longer because some of them use heat to penetrate to the structure inside the hair. We recommend Restorative Hair Masque or Intense Hydrating Masque. These are easy to do at home once a week for dry or damaged hair in 5-15 minutes. Using moisture or moisture with protein will assist in keeping your hair’s health and manageability. (Some stylists use a disulfide mending OLAPLEX in salon as a treatment. Inquire at Emerson Salon with D’Arcy ¬†for this service.)
Make sure to listen to your hair professional’s recommendations
on professional products for your hair type.
-Products sold from a professional salon are the highest quality, do not contain extra water and are more concentrated than other store brands. Don’t trust Amazon, Bartell’s, CVS or Costco for your hair products. They could be expired, contain high levels of bacteria or be counterfeit.
-Your stylist makes the recommendations that will help you recreate the look done inside the salon. Reward them by giving them the sale and not an online outlet or store. Your stylist has your hairs’ health and style as a high priority in order for you to become or stay a returning customer.
-If a product doesn’t work for you, ask if you can exchange the product for one that does. No sense in keeping a product that you do not like the smell or isn’t optimal for you.
Your “Hair Resolutions” in 2016 can be upheld if you follow these easy steps. And remember- your hair is an investment! The more you put into your hair, the happier you will be with it!
Saturday, November 7th, 2015
Meet Emerson Salon‚Äôs newest haircare line addition: Loma Haircare.¬†Loma products work great, smell great, and are very economically priced and locally made (in Monroe, WA). Loma also prints their own bottles, blends their own products, and fills their own bottles, which makes the company ‚Äúone of the last independently owned and operated brands in the professional beauty industry actually manufacturing 100% of its own products.‚ÄĚ
Loma believes in Renewable, Sustainable Beauty; containing naturally healing, organic ingredients and essential oil based fragrances that embrace this belief.¬†‚ÄúLoma pioneered and set the standard for the use of Certified Organic Aloe Vera Gel, the primary base for all Loma products.‚ÄĚ
Loma has been around since 1991, and the company used to have 2 lines: Pearatin and Loma. Hair Guy Lancer, Emerson Salon co-owner, had used Peratin in the past (2004-2006), and a few of his clients really loved one particular product, ‚ÄúPearatin Fortifying Repairative Serum‚ÄĚ. It really is one of the stand-out products in the line, and it has since been re-named ‚ÄúFortifying Repairative Tonic‚ÄĚ.¬†This product is phenomenal. It improves hair‚Äôs ¬†elasticity, which eliminates breakage, improves the hair‚Äôs condition and integrity, resulting in less breakage due to over-use of heat and chemical processes, and in fewer split ends. This tonic will help your hair stay nice and smooth when blowdrying at home. ¬†
“I love this stuff! Since I’ve started using it, I get tons of compliments about the softness and shine of my hair. Unlike all the other serums I’d tried, this one doesn’t weigh my hair down and it doesn’t have an overpowering chemical smell. Highly recommend this serum for all types of hair.” –From makeupalley.com
When Loma had the two lines, it was very confusing! Though Loma‚Äôs product lines consolidated, and their packaging changed, the ingredients remain the same. Loma now is a clearly defined line that‚Äôs in keeping with their organic heritage and Aloe Vera based products, and they‚Äôre much easier to understand and use (also, they only kept the best products from each line!) If you have any questions for Loma, join their Facebook Community, and ask away!
Thursday, October 1st, 2015
Long hair looks are sultry and give you many, many options for styling. Here we show you some of our favorite long hair styles and haircolors!
- Color: This is a balayage haircoloring service with soft golden dark blond and small flicks of lighter blond through the top and front. Ideally, your hair is medium to dark brown naturally so grow out ¬†and maintenance will be minimalized.
- Styling this: Blow dry with Moroccan Oil Original Treatment for heat protection, shine and moisture. Then apply a Kevin Murphy’s Anti-Gravity Spray before using a large barrel curling iron to create soft curl+wave.
- Finish with flexible Working Spray by Alterna Caviar which contains caviar extract to protect the hair from over drying.
- Color:¬†This is a soft balayage technique on medium dark brown hair. It is possible to achieve this with lifting haircolor on naturally pigmented hair to minimize damage.
- Styling this: Once blown dry with Anti-Gravity lotion by Kevin Murphy, put¬†the hair into 4 slightly loose braids. Take a flatiron and clamp down on the brain from the midshaft to the ends. Allow to cool and release the braids.
- Finish with Moroccan Oil Medium Hold Hairspray..and go!
- Color:¬†This is a soft auburn haircolor with hints of strawberry blond balayage through the front and top.
- Styling this:¬†Blow dry on low speed medium heat from damp with Motion Lotion by Kevin Murphy for curl enhancement and frizz control. Then gather the hair to the side and 3 strand braid close to your neck. Hold the ends and loosen the braid by lightly tugging on the strands.
- Finish by securing the ends with a hair tie and use a curling iron to make bends in through pulled out pieces in front.
- Color: This is an all over color in transluscent medium dark brown with neutral to ash tones.
- Styling this: Blow dry from damp with a large round brush using Moroccan Oil Volumizing Mousse. Apply Dry Shampoo by Alterna Caviar at the roots to help keep volume. Then, back brush with a boar bristle brush 2″ from hair line in 2″ sections and spray with Working Spray. Brush the hairline over the volume and slowly smooth out the bumps spraying again. Secure with a few bobby pins by twisting the hair in the back.
- Finish: Rough up the ends with a little teasing and go!
- Color:¬†This is a soft “sombre” balayage that leaves the natural at the midshaft and subtly blends into 1 level lighter than 2 levels lighter on the ends. This look grows out beautifully and once achieved needs maintenance every 3-4 months.
- Styling This: Use Undressed by Kevin Murphy to slick the hair into a high ponytail. Grab a piece of hair to wrap around the ponytail holder 3- 4 X and bobby pin securely into the base of the ponytail. Now softly make a 3 strand braid and secure with another ponytail holder.
- Finish this by misting with a shine spray like Kendi Oil by Alterna Bamboo for shine on the entire thing.
……OR schedule a styling appointment with one of our independent hair designers and treat yourself to some fun style!
Go to emersonsalon.com now to book online!
Wednesday, September 30th, 2015
Having semi permanent or direct dye color needs constant¬†upkeep to maintain¬†the color¬†
and has no guarantee how long it will last! If a semi permanent fades out, book another paid service to redeposit it.¬†There is also no guarantee on the complete removal of direct dyes….
¬† ¬† ¬†We have had some ladies come in with trendy, vibrant hair colors in their hair ….and wanting to remove them. The vibrant colors (like those in the image below) are direct dyes. It is not as easy as just applying one step and getting what you want (unfortunately we can do great things with hair -but there are limits.) The problem with semi permanents like these is they are not guaranteed to last for longer than 10 shampoos and may be less with pastel hues or on bleach damaged or compromised hair. Ironically, if you want to remove them they can be a real bother!
Direct dyes do not,“¬†require oxidation or developer for the color to stain the hair. In areas where the hair is¬†more porous, this type of color will show greater intensity. Caution must be exercised when utilizing a semi-permanent haircolor on porous hair; it can stain the hair¬†permanently.”¬†(From the American Board of Certified Colorists haircolorist.com)
Sometimes, using strong bleaches will make the direct dye go further into the hair shaft and lodge even more stubbornly inside the hair. There are ways to strategically fade or remove the direct dye but having it professionally done is COLOR CORRECTIVE.(Color correction work includes working with removing artificial pigment, coloring hair with previous color history, or deepening or lightening more than 3 levels. )
There is NO GUARANTEE in removing direct dyes. It may take multiple sessions to achieve- it may even not be possible to completely remove without cutting it out. If its a blue, green, or teal like hue it will be VERY difficult to remove. ¬†
If you want to help the fade along you can do the following:
- Use dish or liquid ¬†laundry detergent with harsh sulfates to aggressively emulsify out the color
- ¬†Add 50o mg of crushed Vitamin C and/or Baking Soda to your professional level sulfate free shampoo (leave on for 45 minutes and rinse+condition)
- Soak your hair in bath salts for 40 minutes then shampoo and condition
If you are asking a stylist to remove it, we recommend asking for a mild bleach+ clarifying shampoo with Olaplex treatment at the shampoo bowl. That way you are removing the color midly with a little insurance against breakage. This can remove some of the color and then the remainder can be bleached out once 90% faded.
****If the above methods do not work****
-take a break and deep condition twice a week before you attempt to remove it again.
And remember….. we may be able to do magic with haircolor but we have no magic wand for every hair situation!
Hairstylists do their absolute best to counsel you on the risks of certain services as well as trying to make you happy….
Have more questions?
Book a color consultation with one of our independent hair designers at www.emersonsalon.com
Thursday, September 24th, 2015
It seems our salon fans love hearing about the inside scoop from stylists within our salon-
so we are doing another SALON CONFESSIONAL!
Why doesn’t my fashion color last past a month?
Many ladies are coming in wanting the trendy purple, teal, pale pinks, lilac or grey “granny hair.” What this entails is bleaching the hair to the lightest possible blond in order for a pastel shade to show up. This may mean that it cannot be achieved in one session depending on what history is already on your hair. Generally, pastel and vivid extreme colors are semi-permanent. Semi-permanents are direct dyes ¬†(meaning they sit on top of the hair) and last between 10-16 shampoos -but may be even less if it is a pastel shade. Pastels have no guaranteed longevity and are completely temporary. It is not the stylist’s “fault” if it doesn’t last as long as you would prefer. The nature of the service can be extremely damaging even on the healthiest of hair and can compromise the hairs’ ability to hold color in addition to the nature of the semi-permanent shade used to create the selected hue. Using appropriate sulfate free, professional level, color safe products assists in keeping the color but does not guarantee how long it will last.
Why is my hair so dry and damaged after I get highlights?
- Bleach is an entirely different chemical process than coloring your hair. Bleach aggressively breaks up the hair’s pigment with chemical explosions and results in breaking apart the hair’s structure. Then, we can go in with a semi, demi or permanent color to create the tonality we wish to make that will assist also in holding the hair’s structure together. Hair can become frizzy and porous with the potential of breakage when bleached. Previously colored hair must be bleached in order for it to become lighter so if you have dark color on your hair, the only choice for a stylist is to use bleach.
Why are men’s haircut prices less than women’s longer hair prices?
- ¬†One of our stylists, Michael Simons has great insight on this with his over 20 years ¬†of experience. “I tell clients that the amount of $ and time I put into training to execute women’s and longer haircuts is extensively more than for men’s shorter haircuts.” With men’s haircuts you are looking at a span of 4-6 weeks between cuts. With women a bad haircut could take years to grow out so the work entailed must be top notch.
- D’Arcy, co-owner of Emerson Salon also adds,”I take into account the amount of time and product (shampoo, conditioner + styling product) used in the service. The more hair left on the head the higher the price of the haircut. Also, the price is also based on the training I received for the service. For example, I spent a few years learning advanced color knowledge and haircutting techniques. For men’s cutting I spent 4-6 months learning how to use clippers appropriately. “
What’s the biggest piece of advice for a client ¬†in your chair?
- Michael Simons says that clients need to feel the liberty to speak up in the chair. “I take it as a compliment when people are able to tell me something they do not like about their cut or color in the chair. You trust me as a professional to take the feedback and try to rectify the problem.”
- No stylist wants you to be unhappy with your hair. Creating a style you are satisfied with needs to come from a space that feels safe for you to communicate. Also, getting defensive about our work does not create long lasting clientele and most hair professionals are able to take the critique with poise and grace. So tell us how you really feel (respectfully of course!) We can handle it!
Have we dispelled some myths for you?
We hope so! We are here to make sure our clients understand what is entailed for their hair services at Emerson Salon. We always recommend researching a new style or hair color before embarking on a new look! Ask your stylist lots of questions in the consultation about pricing, recommended care and maintenance and get the best possible service for you and your budget.
Book with an Emerson Salon independent stylist through their profile today!
go to www.emersonsalon.com and select a stylist to book online!
Wednesday, August 26th, 2015
Dry shampoo has become extremely popular in the last few years for people with all hair types. From teenagers to professionals to artists- everyone loves using dry shampoo! When we were in beauty school, our teachers used to instruct us to use drugstore Pssst! dry shampoo when an elderly client was in the hospital and couldn’t shampoo their hair. ¬†Times have changed and there are many more quality dry shampoos to choose from.
Now, we use dry shampoo to assist in lengthening the time between shampoos. People apply it to the internal sections of the hairstyle in order to avoid it being seen along the hairline or root areas.
Also, in order to preserve any color (whether semi, demi or permanent) you want to shampoo as little as possible. Each time you shampoo, you lift up the hair cuticle. The hair cuticle is the layer of hinges that protect the inner structure of the hair, the cortex (see image above.) Your hair color lives in the cortex and the more exposed the cortex is the more it will fade.
To cleanse the hair, shampoo emulsifies the product and dirt out but it also oxidizes your beautiful haircolor ¬†and it slowly goes down the drain. Shampooing less frequently can be really challenging for anyone who works out at the gym on a regular basis or has fine hair that “greases” up quicker. In the¬†summer time you are one hot day away from¬†your ‘do becoming¬†completely altered by sweat and oil!¬†That is why we advise clients to¬†use dry shampoo, but we always try to educate on the best practices and why you use it.
Our scalp is part of our dermal system and the follicles release oil (known as sebum) to lubricate the hair as it grows. We also sweat from our scalp which can double or triple the oil that gets onto the hair. Sebum¬†is our hair’s best leave-in conditioner but it can cause hair to become limp or weighted down. To battle this, the dry shampoo stops the oil transfer from the scalp to the hair and elongates the time between shampoos.
We carry several different dry shampoos here at Emerson Salon. Here we detail the benefits of each:
¬† ¬† ¬†Alterna Caviar Dry Shampoo is a powder based shampoo. We LOVE it! Its great for ALL hair types and the powder is so fine it feels like water when you apply it. It has anti-aging caviar extract in it and is very economical. If you use it every day, it may take a couple months to get through. It is very difficult to over use since you can see the powder. We recommend putting it above the ears, under your part line and through the nape. Use your fingers to evenly disperse it once applied. It is also Talc free which means it will not build up on your scalp or cause the hair follicle to become blocked.
TIP: To create more volume, try spray a flexible hairspray on the roots from below the section once the dry shampoo is applied.
¬† ¬† ¬†¬†Fresh Hair by Kevin Murphy is a spray based dry shampoo. This is great for fine to medium hair types as it is lighter than a powder based dry shampoo. They call it a “dry cleaning spray,” which is a great description as it removes oils and odor without water or detergents. It smells like a light baby powder.
¬† ¬† Light or Dark Tone Dry Shampoo by Moroccan Oil¬†is a tinted spray dry shampoo. If you are concerned that a dry shampoo may be seen in your hair when you move- you can opt for a tinted version like these. The light tone dry shampoo work best with medium to lighter blonds and the dark tone version works best with medium to dark haircolors. Just one or two spritzes in each area inside the hairstyle will do it!
The one downside of using dry shampoo is that the dirt and oil will build up at the scalp with the dry shampoo so it is important to cleanse it properly. Using a clarifier is NOT recommended as this type of shampoo has a higher ph and can strip the color you have been working so hard to protect. You can use a lower ph detox shampoo that works similarly in removing the buildup but will not suck the color out in the process. Removing this scalp buildup is very important as keeping your hair follicle unblocked is crucial to hair health and growth
¬†Maxi Wash by Kevin Murphy is a color safe detox shampoo that uses alpha hydroxy to exfoliate out oil, product and dirt buildup. ¬†It will not lift up the cuticle layer like a clarifying shampoo but will gently cleanse the scalp and hair. It is recommended to use this shampoo repeatedly until you get a nice thick, meringue type lather. If it doesn’t lather- rinse and repeat. You can follow this with your regular paraben and sulfate free conditioner- we recommend Hydrate.Me Rinse with moisturizing kakadu plum.¬†
Clear it Up by ColorProof is a color safe detox shampoo that uses baking soda, and vitamins C+ E. This shampoo is best used by leaving on for about 2 minutes once you get a thick lather. Its also great to use if you have hard water at home or swim in a chlorinated pool. ¬†You need to cleanse the hair of those contaminates because of the effects they can have on the condition, color and manageability of your hair. Follow with a paraben and sulfate free deep conditioner- we recommend Moisture Masque from ColorProof.
Thursday, August 13th, 2015
New hair looks get new names. Some ladies in our chair are still learning what balayage and ombre is-
balayage: hand painted highlights ¬†ombre: lighter highlights concentrated on the ends
The newest terms that baffles potential clients minds are the terms “bronde” or “ecaille.”
BRONDE means any soft balayage technique that blends a medium or dark brown base
into a medium/dark gold or warm/medium¬†beige highlight.
The ‘Br’ is the brown and the ‘onde’ is the blonde. The contrast is moderate and tends to grow out very naturally for either black, dark brown or medium brown naturally colored hair. In the salon, we compare these colors to shades of coffee with its balanced, rich tones.
¬†This is a¬†great technique to drop down¬†a dramatic blond balayage or ombre to help add shine+ reflection to hair that is trashed ¬†from too much bleaching or sun fadeage. The color will fill in the negative spaces and plump up the structure to help the hair to style and look better.
This look tends to slowly graduate the dark color from roots to the mid shaft and ends – creating a subtle ombre or “sombre” effect. The difference in contrast between the darker shade should ounly be 1-3 levels only.
ECAILLE or “tortoise shell” combines a medium or dark brown base with soft ¬†strips of medium to light gold balayage highlights in the front and mid-shaft+ends.
The effect is different than bronde. The highlights can be closer to the scalp ¬†and give an overall, defined, dimensional look. This look is great for naturally colored medium brown or ash colored hair. The base color can be bumped up a level and the highlights painted in after. The grow out is a little less soft than bronde¬†and will require the highlights to be maintained every 10 weeks instead of the normal soft balayage growout of 12-14 weeks. The effect will only subtly ombre on the last couple inches of the hair.
Want to try one of these looks on after ¬†a summer of faded haircolor?
Book with one of our independent stylists through their profile at www.emersonsalon.com
“For Style That Works!”
Friday, June 19th, 2015
This time of year is the PERFECT time to try a new haircut or hair color. Why? Because the sun can really show off your new look and amplified confidence!
Here we review some ways to take care of your hair in the heat of the season in addition to some new trends…..
Summer Hair Care:
¬† ¬† ¬†– Make sure you are getting regular trims. You can have your short to medium length hair cut every 5-8 weeks or your medium to long length hair every 8-12 weeks. This will prevent splits from occurring and causing breakage and loss of density and length.
–Use a UV inhibitor when you will be in the sun for longer than 20 min at a time. A good one to use is Moroccan Oil Original Treatment which will not build up on your hair, has anti-oxidants to prevent haircolor from fading and reconditions and moisturizes the hair.
– Make sure to protect¬†your hair before you go swimming in a pool or saltwater. Saltwater and chlorine are highly drying to the hair, can fade or alter haircolor and can also cause breakage+damage with prolonged exposure. A good method to protect your hair’s condition and color is to use a hair conditioner or Moroccan Oil on damp hair and wear a swim cap over it. It will act as a barrier to exposure to these conditions.
–Pre-Schedule regular color appointments.¬†The sun’s UV rays can fade your haircolor even if you are following recommended care and using¬†sulfate free shampoos, conditioners and styling products. So, plan for refreshing that shiny red haircolor or newly toned blond every 6-8 weeks so your hair always looks its best. Don’t take the chance that your stylist can take you when you need and pre-book your color refresh at the end of each service appointment.
SUMMER HAIR TRENDS:
Take a look at some great ways to cut, color and style your hair for summer below!
WOMEN’S¬†TRENDS: Beachy waves on long layered hair, “Lob” haircut, ¬†Long top pixie cut, Side swept bangs, balayage soft strip highlights that are 3 levels lighter than natural or pastelled
MEN’S TRENDS: Tight fade on the sides and long top for side parting (left below), ¬†disconnected clipper cut with heavy weightline (right below)
Or take a look at our Pinterest boards at:¬†https://www.pinterest.com/emerson_salon/
GET THAT NEW ‘DO!
Book with an independently run hairstylist at www.emersonsalon.com¬†so YOU can be on trend this summer-
…and on FLEEK!