Articles from ‘Brunettes’

Monday, February 24th, 2020

Henna For Hair

Co-Owner Lancer has been asked many questions about henna and there are many variances that make coloring hair with henna unique. Here is some great information that can help inform you about whether henna is a good choice for you and your hair, as well as what to expect from henna, how to prepare for your henna appointments, and how to take care of your hair post-henna treatment at home.

What Henna Color Can and Cannot Do:

  • Henna deposits pigment onto the hair. It cannot lighten hair. Henna is often permanent and difficult to color over.
  • Henna dyes do not contain chemicals that are required to change the color of dark hair.
  • Henna is natural, and individual results vary, based on one’s hair color.
  • When henna is applied on black or dark brown hair, the result will be within the auburn to burgundy range, with red highlights that will be visible in the sunlight.
  • On light hair, henna might look perfect, or it might come out intense orange or red, since henna doesn’t fade very much on light or fine hair.

What Is In Henna Color and How Does It Work?

  • Blonde, Brown, Auburn, Mahogany, and other shades of henna colorants contain amla, indigo, walnut, rhubarb, and lawsonia.
  • Henna can be enhanced by adding other natural ingredients such as chamomile, beet powder, paprika, coffee, and indigo.
  • Henna works by depositing natural pigments that coat the hair and also provides shine to the hair.
  • This coating is what conditions your hair and makes it shiny, but is also why it’s difficult to remove.

Henna Benefits:

  • Natural Henna is 100% naturally grown & chemical free. The hues produced by henna are natural and vibrant.
  • Henna treatments enhance volume and sooth the scalp, and it also reduces dandruff.
  • ​Henna’s benefits are cumulative; with repeated applications over the years, henna improves the hair’s texture.
  • Since henna is natural, it conditions and colors your hair in a natural and safe manner.
  • Henna naturally conditions, strengthens, removes excess oil, protects hair from sun damage, and leaves hair silky and soft.

First Time Henna Users:

  • Everyone’s hair is different, and getting rid of unwanted henna color is rarely an option.
  • I always recommend doing a strand test before a first time henna service, because natural dyes also affected by your natural color, as well as any other colors you have on your hair.
  • Henna can only be grown out or cut out of the hair, because it is a permanent stain. it can be color shifted or enhanced only with another henna product, since it coats the outer hair shaft which affects the penetration of traditional chemical colors.
  • Your results may vary and it may take up to 3-4 applications for your hair to recognize henna.
  • If you don’t see your desired color right away, wait 48-72 hours to see your results.
  • Henna stains hair red-orange, but the stain is translucent and will combine with your natural color.
  • Repeated henna applications will result in a deeper color.
  • Henna can become less translucent over time from repeated applications, by applying a deeper henna mixture, or from mixing henna with indigo.
  • Sometimes an additional henna application is needed for the optimal results, especially on gray hair.
  • Gray hair tends to be stubborn and can be difficult to cover with henna because henna is so natural, and nature takes its time.
  • Henna will dye white hair a natural red or a deep red.
  • Henna will dye blonde hair red, which can translate as intense orange.
  • Henna on red hair will make the hair a deeper red.

Post-Henna Service (At Home Care Instructions):

  • Please shampoo your hair between 24-48 hours of application to lock in your color.
  • If you have deep red, wine red, mahogany, or burgundy henna on your hair, you should then wash your hair for 3 consecutive days to help lessen the pigment bleeding.
  • Red clay is used in these henna colors, which tends to make the color bleed.

Tips to Lessen Color Bleeding:

  • Avoid using any white linens during the bleed stage post-red henna coloring.
  • Make sure your hair is dry before dressing, and avoid light colored clothing.
  • Please avoid piling your hair on top of your head while washing your hair. Always rinse from roots to tips and consider washing sections separately.
  • Rinsing with cold cool water is very important to help seal the hair cuticle, lessening dyes escaping.
  • Using conditioner when rinsing henna helps lessen color bleeding.

Thursday, July 12th, 2018

Color Care At Home

 

 

Just because a color may be “permanent”, hair color doesn’t last forever. ALL hair color, whether natural, temporary, demi-permanent, semi-permanent, or permanent, will dull and fade over time. Protect your color investment by slowing the fading process by following these tips!

1) Wash less often, and consider using dry shampoos between washes.

2) When you DO shampoo, wash and rinse your hair with cooler water (easy to do in the summer for sure!) This helps keep your color from running.

3) Use shampoos and conditioners that are formulated to maintain color. UVA and UVB protective shampoos and conditioners keep your color looking fresh by protecting from the sun’s harmful rays that dull color over time, and using pigmented shampoos and conditioners, such as the Love Kevin Murphy Colouring.Angels at home between salon appointments to deposit color temporarily.

4) Watch the heat styling. Using hot tools on high-heat settings will fade a color quicker than anything. Use a thermal protectant spray before applying heat from your blow dryer or hot irons, because thermal protectants create a barrier between your hair and the heat. Using a lower heat setting is much safer in the long run and also helps prevent moisture loss that is inevitable from using hot tools on your hair.

http://www.hairguylancer.com/single-post/2018/07/12/Color-Care-Tips

Thursday, September 29th, 2016

We Love Color.Me!

colormeimage   In the cosmetology industry, it is important to stay knowledgeable on new technologies in hair color and hair products because innovations in ingredients and trends are ever-changing. To that end, Emerson Salon colorists have started to encounter more and more people with sensitivities and allergies to ammonia and PPD and have wanted to broach this issue for our clienteles.

What is PPD? Phenylenediamine (or PPD) is an organic compound used in hair dyes, as well as in rubber chemicals, textile dyes and pigments. Manufacturers like it because it has a low relative toxicity level, high temperature stability, and chemical and electrical resistance. In other words, it helps the new color stay on your hair despite numerous washings, dryings, and stylings. (from http://www.annmariegianni.com/)

Why is PPD “bad?” The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) notes the following:

-PPD is potentially capable of causing multiple toxic effects following skin contact.

-Data from studies of both humans and animals are sufficient to demonstrate that PPD has potent skin-sensitizing properties.

-Several cases of contact dermatitis have been reported following occupational exposure to dyes containing the chemical.

-Studies have also identified the chemical as the third most common ingredient, after fragrances and preservatives, that can cause contact dermatitis from cosmetics (mainly skin-care products, hair preparations and colorants, and facial makeup products).

colorme5

 

 

We listened and have taken on the NEW color line Color.Me Kevin Murphy that is PPD FREE, Ammonia Free, Cruelty free and the ONLY PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) approved hair color line. We are so excited! If you look at the image to the left- you will see a color that prematurely faded on resistant grey hair with ammonia based permanent hair color. Then, observe the after as well as the ZERO fadeage after 3 weeks. WOW! What a difference! Check out more before and afters below!

 

 

colorme6colorme4 colorme2

Here is some more information on its features+ ingredients:

  1. Color. Me is a performance driven line which means it is highly predictable and has minimal fade-age.
  2. It has a wonderful rose tea fragrance and barely any chemical smell at all because it is an MEA ammonia derivative and not actual ammonia.
  3. It causes next to no skin irritation and does not stain like ammonia based hair color.
  4.  It contains: shea butter, pomengranate, aloe vera, grapeseed oil, panthenol, almond oil (those with allergies to nuts may be sensitive,) coconut oil and most importantly, HONEY!
  5. The haircolor will never spoil or expire because of the sugars contained in the honey base.
  6. The line is designed for custom formulation and can be made semi, demi or permanent based on the artistic choices of the colorist as well as the desires of the client.
  7.  Has 3 types of bleaches: cream/oil based, ammonia based and non-ammonia lighteners give the professional the control to determine how much damage and lift is incurred on the hair.

  Want to have Color. Me by Kevin Murphy haircolor for your next all over color or balayage?

Book with D’Arcy, Lancer, or Chelsea at emersonsalon.com to expedrience it for yourself! Read the rest of this entry

Monday, September 22nd, 2014

What Is Color Correction?

Color Correction is one of the most technically challenging services to accomplish as a colorist.  Many factors are involved when executing this service including hair’s  chemical history, length, porosity and density.

Color correction can be time consuming- it can take anywhere from 2 -5 hours depending on desired result. We recommend always booking a consultation prior to booking a color correction in order for your hair to be analyzed and assessed by your stylist for your desired shade. Also, each of our stylists are independent so it will be important to inquire as to what color line they intend to use. Some of our stylists use It&ly Hairfashion that is 98% naturally derived and has tons of essential oils and botanicals that assist in conditioning the hair.   It is very important that the stylist knows the color line they work with very well in addition to a working knowledge of color theory and the color wheel.

For example: To counteract orange a colorist may use a blue/ash tone to cancel out warmth as it is opposite orange on the color wheel.

Color Correction follows under the following three categories:

  • Deepening hair color more than 3 shades all over
  • Lightening artificial pigment and/or box color all over
  • Lightening hair color more than 3 shades all over
  • Correcting undesirable color on compromised, damaged or previously colored hair

When deepening the hair color more than 3 shades:  An example of this is when a client would like to take their lighter blond hair to a darker shade like dark chocolate or natural black (like seen on Katy Perry above.)  Taking hair to the desired shade on overly porous or damaged hair that has been lightened previously without a trained professional is not advised .

In order to achieve consistent color saturation that won’t fade unevenly or in odd tones you must add the warmth back in first. Example: A light blond will need to be stepped down with copper before applying the desired chestnut brown. If hair is extremely damaged it may be necessary to come back in a month to redeposit the desired shade because of the damage on the hair and not due to the inability of the colorist. Sometimes the hairs’ damage supersedes accurate coloring techniques.

Lightening artificial pigment or Lightening hair color more than 3 shades all over: When getting your hair bleached it is important to know why it is necessary. Color does not lift artificial color and getting more than 3 or 4 levels of lift on natural hair is usually not possible using  lifting hair color. Bleach is a different chemical process than permanent oxidative haircolor. It uses a higher ammonia content and chemical “explosions” in the hair’s structure to break up the pigment living inside. Then the hair can be toned to counteract or enhance the raw tone in the hair that has been exposed. (Above you can see the 7 stages of bleaching that shows the shades bleached hair moves through.) A lot of the time clients want to avoid the red orange  in the hair  (also known as “brassiness”) and a blue or blue green based color can be used to neutralize it.

We also advise color correction lighter clients to be prepared for dry, frizzy hair to emerge after bleaching. On certain hair types this can cause breakage if there is a complicated color history to the hair.

Regarding bleaching through artificial hair color with old highlights underneath: This will cause “compounded damage,” which means there is a higher risk of breakage in addition to unpredictable color results. If you covered up old highlights with dark box color it is very hard to remove because box color uses cheaper pigments . Cheaper pigments are very challenging  to strip out and may need more processing time or repeated bleaching sessions.

****Correcting undesirable color on compromised, damaged or previously colored hair can also be corrective. ****

Damaged hair is porous and can “suck up” colors too dark, too brown, too cool, and will have a risk of fadeage. Hair that is porous has lots of holes in the hair’s structure +cuticle. This condition can make it EXTREMELY difficult to get a guaranteed or desirable result.

When receiving color correction we recommend the following:

Use appropriate professional level, paraben +sulfate free, color safe shampoos and conditioners. Drugstore brands contain 85% water, waxes, parabens, and although may say they are color safe they do not work as effectively. You invested in a new color- so make sure to maintain it with recommended products! We are loving Moroccan Oil Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner as they make even the most damaged hair behave for you  better.

Bring home a deep conditioning treatment like Moroccan Oil Restorative Mask to help rehab your hair so the color will stay longer in addition to repairing damage with argan oil and a little protein.

Use a good leave in product like Moroccan Oil  or Moroccan Oil Light. The antioxidants and U.V. inhibitor properties will help protect your new color from fadeage and also acts as a great thermal protectant during heat styling.

Lookin’ to dramatically change your haircolor? Book with an Emerson Salon Stylist  by contacting them specifically for a consult!