Articles from ‘Brunettes’
Thursday, September 29th, 2016
¬† ¬†In the cosmetology industry, it is important to stay knowledgeable on new technologies in hair color and hair products because innovations in ingredients and trends are ever-changing. To that end, Emerson Salon colorists have started to encounter more and more people with sensitivities and allergies to ammonia and PPD and have wanted to broach this issue for our clienteles.
What is PPD?¬†Phenylenediamine (or PPD) is an organic compound used in hair dyes, as well as in rubber chemicals, textile dyes and pigments. Manufacturers like it because it has a low relative toxicity level, high temperature stability, and chemical and electrical resistance. In other words, it helps the new color stay on your hair despite numerous washings, dryings, and stylings. (from¬†http://www.annmariegianni.com/)
Why is PPD “bad?”¬†The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) notes the following:
-PPD is potentially capable of causing multiple toxic effects following skin contact.
-Data from studies of both humans and animals are sufficient to demonstrate that PPD has potent skin-sensitizing properties.
-Several cases of contact dermatitis have been reported following occupational exposure to dyes containing the chemical.
-Studies have also identified the chemical as the third most common ingredient, after fragrances and preservatives, that can cause contact dermatitis from cosmetics (mainly skin-care products, hair preparations and colorants, and facial makeup products).
We listened and have taken on the NEW color line Color.Me Kevin Murphy that is PPD FREE, Ammonia Free, Cruelty free and the ONLY PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) approved hair color line. We are so excited! If you look at the image to the left- you will see a color that prematurely faded on resistant grey hair with ammonia based permanent hair color. Then, observe the after as well as the ZERO fadeage after 3 weeks. WOW! What a difference! Check out more before and afters below!
Here is some more information on its features+ ingredients:
- Color. Me is a performance driven line which means it is highly predictable and has minimal fade-age.
- It has a wonderful rose tea fragrance and barely any chemical smell at all because it is an MEA ammonia derivative and not actual ammonia.
- It causes next to no skin irritation and does not stain like ammonia based hair color.
- ¬†It contains: shea butter, pomengranate, aloe vera, grapeseed oil, panthenol, almond oil (those with allergies to nuts may be sensitive,) coconut oil and most importantly, HONEY!
- The haircolor will never spoil or expire because of the sugars contained in the honey base.
- The line is designed for custom formulation and can be made semi, demi or permanent based on the artistic choices of the colorist as well as the desires of the client.
- ¬†Has 3 types of bleaches: cream/oil based, ammonia based and non-ammonia lighteners give the professional the control to determine how much damage and lift is incurred on the hair.
¬† Want to have Color. Me by Kevin Murphy haircolor for your next all over color or balayage?
Monday, September 22nd, 2014
Color Correction is one of the most technically challenging services to accomplish as a colorist. ¬†Many factors are involved when executing this service including hair’s ¬†chemical history, length, porosity and density.
Color correction can be time consuming- it can take anywhere from 2 -5 hours depending on desired result. We recommend always booking a consultation prior to booking a color correction in order for your hair to be analyzed and assessed by your stylist for your desired shade. Also, each of our stylists are independent so it will be important to inquire as to what color line they intend to use. Some of our stylists use It&ly Hairfashion that is 98% naturally derived and has tons of essential oils and botanicals that assist in conditioning the hair. ¬† It is very important that the stylist knows the color line they work with very well in addition to a working knowledge of color theory and the color wheel.
For example: To counteract orange a colorist may use a blue/ash tone to cancel out warmth as it is opposite orange on the color wheel.
Color Correction follows under the following three categories:
- Deepening hair color more than 3 shades all over
- Lightening artificial pigment and/or box color all over
- Lightening hair color more than 3 shades all over
- Correcting undesirable color on compromised, damaged or previously colored hair
When deepening the hair color more than 3 shades:¬†¬†An example of this is when a client would like to take their lighter blond hair¬†to a darker shade like dark chocolate or natural black (like seen on Katy Perry above.) ¬†Taking¬†hair to the desired shade on overly porous or damaged hair that has been lightened previously without a trained professional is not advised .
In order to achieve consistent color saturation that won’t fade unevenly or in odd tones you must add the warmth back in first. Example: A light blond will need to be stepped down with copper before applying the desired chestnut brown. If hair is extremely damaged it may be necessary to come back in a month to redeposit the desired shade because of the damage on the hair and not due to the inability of the colorist. Sometimes the hairs’ damage supersedes accurate coloring techniques.
Lightening artificial pigment or¬†Lightening hair color more than 3 shades all over: When getting your hair bleached it is important to know why it is necessary. Color does not lift artificial color and getting more than 3 or 4 levels of lift on natural hair is usually not possible using ¬†lifting hair color. Bleach is a different chemical process than permanent oxidative haircolor. It uses a higher ammonia content and chemical “explosions” in the hair’s structure to break up the pigment living inside. Then the hair can be toned to counteract or enhance the raw tone in the hair that has been exposed. (Above you can see the 7 stages of bleaching that shows the shades bleached hair moves through.) A lot of the time clients want to avoid the red orange ¬†in the hair ¬†(also known as “brassiness”) and a blue or blue green based color can be used to neutralize it.
We also advise color correction lighter clients to be prepared for dry, frizzy hair to emerge after bleaching. On certain hair types this can cause breakage if there is a complicated color history to the hair.
Regarding bleaching through artificial hair color with old highlights underneath: This will cause “compounded damage,” which means there is a higher risk of breakage in addition to unpredictable color results. If you covered up old highlights with dark box¬†color it is very hard to remove because box color uses cheaper pigments . Cheaper pigments are very challenging ¬†to strip out and may need more processing time or repeated bleaching sessions.
****Correcting undesirable color on compromised, damaged or¬†previously colored hair can also be corrective. ****
Damaged hair is porous and can “suck up” colors too dark, too brown, too cool, and will have a risk of fadeage. Hair that is porous has lots of holes in the hair’s structure +cuticle. This condition can make it EXTREMELY difficult to get a guaranteed or desirable result.
When receiving color correction we recommend the following:
– Use appropriate professional level, paraben +sulfate free, color safe shampoos and conditioners. Drugstore brands contain 85% water, waxes, parabens, and although may say they are color safe they do not work as effectively. You invested in a new color- so make sure to maintain it with recommended products! We are loving Moroccan Oil Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner as they make even the most damaged hair behave for you ¬†better.
– Bring home a deep conditioning treatment like Moroccan Oil Restorative Mask to help rehab your hair so the color will stay longer in addition to repairing damage with argan oil and a little protein.
–Use a good leave in product like Moroccan Oil ¬†or Moroccan Oil Light. The antioxidants and U.V. inhibitor properties will help protect your new color from fadeage and also acts as a great thermal protectant during heat styling.
Lookin’ to dramatically change your haircolor? Book with an Emerson Salon Stylist ¬†by contacting them specifically for a consult!