Articles from ‘Hair Consultation’

Wednesday, January 28th, 2015

Educate Yourself On Hair Extensions

At Emerson Salon, we have a lot of potential clients call to inquire about hair extensions. Here our extensions specialist, D’Arcy, explains them, There is a lot to learn! Here we discuss the different types of extensions, their benefits and disadvantages.

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Extensions Types:

  1. Clip-ins or Halo: This is a temporary application method that can include 5-7 clip in wefts with curved barettes. The extensions hook into the section and (once closed and secured) sit snugly against the head shape. There is also a new type of extensions called Halo where the hair is on a miracle wire that can be easily put in or taken out of a hairstyle. Good for a special event or sporadic wear.(Available for purchase online through Sally’s beauty supply, Etsy, or through special order via¬†D’Arcy Hair Design with a client consultation. Can take up to 2 weeks for delivery. Halo is available for purchase online or in Bellevue.)
  2. Tape-Ins: This is a semi-permanent application method where the wefts are applied by a hair professional where a light adhesive strip assists  adhere the weft to your hair. To remove, a hair professional uses a special bond remover liquid is used. Good for a special event or for 2-4 weeks of wear. Can be reused with additional adhesive strips. (not available at Emerson Salon)
  3. Fusion: This is a permanent application method that uses heat and a special bond to adhere the tiny wift to your hair. This hair CANNOT be reused which means the $ invested in the hair is for one application only. Fusion extensions need to be removed by a trained professional with a special bond remover within 3 months of application. (not available at Emerson Salon)
  4. I-Tip or Microlock: This is a permanent application method that uses a colored, aluminum bead that is threaded onto a small weft of your hair. The bead has grooves on the inside to help grip the small weft inserted into it and then the bead is closed to hold the extension in place.  This method is the least damaging to the hair and the hair can be reused between 2-4 times in order to maximize the investment in your hair purchase. Move-ups are required every 6-8 weeks to keep them looking and behaving well. (AVAILABLE AT EMERSON SALON WITH A CONSULTATION)

How long does my hair need to be to get permanent extensions?

We have many people who call and ask”I have a grown out pixie cut, can I get extensions?” The answer generally will be NO. Blending the extensions with a grown out shorter haircut is next to impossible and you will need so many extensions pieces that it is uncomfortable. ¬†It is best to have hair that is a long bob or longer. It is also helpful if your haircut is textured and not blunt cut as blending a solid line with extensions is also problematic.

How do I care for my permanently applied extensions?

It is best to avoid washing the extensions more than once or twice a week because the more washing, the more apt the extensions are to slip or break apart. Once  double shampooed and conditioned once or twice a week, towel dry, apply a dry oil like Kendi Oil to help detangle and work the knots out from the bottom up with a wide tooth comb. Then let air dry or rough dry on medium heat. Its a good idea to use a powder dry shampoo by Alterna Caviar in between washing. It helps prevent your natural scalp oils from getting on the keratin tip on the extensions. which  can break them apart over time.

How many pieces need to be applied for a full head?

It depends. It depends on how long and how dense your hair is and what the desired effect of the extensions  will be. If you are looking for fullness on fine hair then between 40-80 pieces. If you are looking for length it really depends on how long your hair is. The shorter you hair, the more extensions will  be needed to make it appear long. It could take between 60-100 pieces for  length. If you want fullness and length then then you may need between 80-140 pieces.

Are permanent extensions uncomfortable?

If the permanent extensions are applied professionally, they will most likely only be slightly uncomfortable for the first few days when sleeping. The tip of the extension should not be poking out from the bead into the scalp to avoid discomfort. It is also a learning curve learning how to take care of and style your new hair extensions so be prepared to spend some time with a curling iron and flat iron. Adjusting to a new routine may be needed for your new tresses!

Why do salons that offer extensions not carry stock of hair at the salon?

Hair extensions are extremely expensive and in order to have a full stock of hair in the salon for the one or two clients of month who request it is just not good business sense. Also, there have been extensions salons robbed of an entire inventory of hair because of their worth. So, at Emerson Salon specifically it is NOT POSSIBLE TO GET DAY OF or DAY BEFORE extensions appointments.

To learn pricing for I-tip extensions through D’Arcy Hair Design go to www.darcyhairdesign.com/Services.html and book a consultation today! (WARNING: It takes 2-3 business days for hair to arrive once ordered following a consultation. You are charged directly for the hair and beads)

Tuesday, December 9th, 2014

How To Speak With Your New Stylist

Getting your hair done by someone new can be fraught with anxiety and frustration. Hair is an everyday accessory and cannot be taken off your body like a shirt or dress. So, if you are unhappy with your hairstyle it can greatly effect and affect how you feel when you present yourself to the world. Having confidence in your hair and yourself is extremely important to posessing a positive self-image.

A lot of clients come to the salon not knowing how to express what they are looking for in their service. Here are some helpful ¬†tips on how to broach the communication gap with your new hair stylist…..

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  • Bring Pictures:¬†Whether printed out or on a phone or tablet, visuals are awesome! Even if you find pictures of things you do not want that can be helpful. It greatly assists the stylist if you try to find pictures with a hair type similar to yours.

Example: A fine density straight hair picture may not work for a thick, curly haired person who doesn’t want to style their hair everyday. The stylist will help discuss what components of the pictures are achieveable for you. Multiple pictures are best as certain parts of ¬†pictures may be selected for incorporation into your new haircut or haircolor.

  • Share Who You Are!¬†Tell the stylist about yourself- and make sure to include lifestyle and hobbies too! Stylists are great at reading people and the more information the better! Do you wash you hair every day? Have you colored your hair in the last year? Do you like to do styling on yourself for special occasions only? ¬†It might seem simple but it is hugely important for delivering a service that works for you and how often you want to get your hair done. Ask them questions and let the stylist ask questions too.
  • Listen to Their Advice+Recommendations:¬†During the consultation, the stylist might already have ideas and solutions for your challenging hair days. Here at Emerson, we try not to push products but we do utilize them to solve problems you might notice with your hair. Having the right products and tools based on your stylists’ advice can be key to feeling good in the long term with your hair and its condition.
  • Describe What You Haven’t Liked In Past Services:¬†Did your last stylist chop off too much? Is there a growth pattern that never works with what you are trying to do with your hair? Is your hair overly damaged from past services? Pointing out to a new stylist what has been attempted in the past is so important to not repeating the same issues again.
  • Choose A Stylist You Think You Will Mesh Well With in the Long Term:¬†Building a relationship with a new stylist is like getting to know a new friend or co worker. It takes a little work to set yourself up for success. Learn about the stylist’s ¬†experience, background, specialties, and pricing structure. Nothing is worse than sitting in a chair of a stylist who isn’t comfortable with the style you are trying to achieve or doesn’t work with your hair type successfully. Most stylists will list what they excel in and some (like on our website) will give you info on their schedule, portfolio or even their personal hobbies/interests.
  • EYE CONTACT! Make sure your stylist is taking the time to speak with you about your service and looking you in the eyes. Ask them lots of questions and allow the stylist to do the same before executing any service. A “meeting of the minds” is essential in receiving an excellent hair that makes you happy. Making sure to directly connect with each other by avoiding speaking throught the mirror is absolutely key! Great¬†stylists will sit down with you and will absorb what you are saying by sitting still and avoiding touching your hair until they have thoroughly taken in what you are saying. If the stylist speaks over you or interrupts there is a good chance they may not be receiving everything ¬†you are sharing. In that case, make sure to continue the consultation until they repeat back what you are asking for. Consider the consultation an interview and if the interview doesn’t seem to clarify ambiguities you have, then you have every right to ask to schedule another consultation with a new stylist. You are the boss of whether you submit to a service or not! Once the stylist starts they are in control until they finish and by then, it may be too late. At that point, unhappiness may result and an adjustement will be needed.
  • Manage Your Expectations:¬†¬†If you bring in a picture of Jennifer Lopez and you are a fair skinned blond asking for her haircolor- that could be a very bad idea. Putting something on you directly from a picture without discussing bone structure, coloring and maintenance will definitely cause you dissatisfaction. Its like reaching into a bag and putting a random wig on top and crossing your fingers that it will look favorable on you. Ask the stylist what will and will not work and be open to them saying that some ideas are a no-go and why.

For example: You show a bleach blond with a bob and you need to put your hair in ponytail and do not want to be getting touch ups every month on your naturally dark hair. Your stylist wants you to be happy as a happy customer comes back and refers their friends. So make sure you are asking for something that will align with you and who you are. Being smart about talking to your stylist will make sure you are getting something you are confident with! Walking in and taking whoever is available in a salon can work but it is less likely to work if you haven’t prepped yourself ahead of time.

Looking for a new stylist? Check out our independently run hair designers- they are all experienced and their profiles can help you choose the best one for you! Their contact info is easily found in their profile.

Contact one of them directly today…..We are confident you will love what they do for you!

Monday, September 22nd, 2014

What Is Color Correction?

Color Correction is one of the most technically challenging services to accomplish as a colorist. ¬†Many factors are involved when executing this service including hair’s ¬†chemical history, length, porosity and density.

Color correction can be time consuming- it can take anywhere from 2 -5 hours depending on desired result. We recommend always booking a consultation prior to booking a color correction in order for your hair to be analyzed and assessed by your stylist for your desired shade. Also, each of our stylists are independent so it will be important to inquire as to what color line they intend to use. Some of our stylists use It&ly Hairfashion that is 98% naturally derived and has tons of essential oils and botanicals that assist in conditioning the hair.   It is very important that the stylist knows the color line they work with very well in addition to a working knowledge of color theory and the color wheel.

For example: To counteract orange a colorist may use a blue/ash tone to cancel out warmth as it is opposite orange on the color wheel.

Color Correction follows under the following three categories:

  • Deepening hair color more than 3 shades all over
  • Lightening artificial pigment and/or box color all over
  • Lightening hair color more than 3 shades all over
  • Correcting undesirable color on compromised, damaged or previously colored hair

When deepening the hair color more than 3 shades:  An example of this is when a client would like to take their lighter blond hair to a darker shade like dark chocolate or natural black (like seen on Katy Perry above.)  Taking hair to the desired shade on overly porous or damaged hair that has been lightened previously without a trained professional is not advised .

In order to achieve consistent color saturation that won’t fade unevenly or in odd tones you must add the warmth back in first. Example: A light blond will need to be stepped down with copper before applying the desired chestnut brown. If hair is extremely damaged it may be necessary to come back in a month to redeposit the desired shade because of the damage on the hair and not due to the inability of the colorist. Sometimes the hairs’ damage supersedes accurate coloring techniques.

Lightening artificial pigment or¬†Lightening hair color more than 3 shades all over: When getting your hair bleached it is important to know why it is necessary. Color does not lift artificial color and getting more than 3 or 4 levels of lift on natural hair is usually not possible using ¬†lifting hair color. Bleach is a different chemical process than permanent oxidative haircolor. It uses a higher ammonia content and chemical “explosions” in the hair’s structure to break up the pigment living inside. Then the hair can be toned to counteract or enhance the raw tone in the hair that has been exposed. (Above you can see the 7 stages of bleaching that shows the shades bleached hair moves through.) A lot of the time clients want to avoid the red orange ¬†in the hair ¬†(also known as “brassiness”) and a blue or blue green based color can be used to neutralize it.

We also advise color correction lighter clients to be prepared for dry, frizzy hair to emerge after bleaching. On certain hair types this can cause breakage if there is a complicated color history to the hair.

Regarding bleaching through artificial hair color with old highlights underneath: This will cause “compounded damage,” which means there is a higher risk of breakage in addition to unpredictable color results. If you covered up old highlights with dark box¬†color it is very hard to remove because box color uses cheaper pigments . Cheaper pigments are very challenging ¬†to strip out and may need more processing time or repeated bleaching sessions.

****Correcting undesirable color on compromised, damaged or previously colored hair can also be corrective. ****

Damaged hair is porous and can “suck up” colors too dark, too brown, too cool, and will have a risk of fadeage. Hair that is porous has lots of holes in the hair’s structure +cuticle. This condition can make it EXTREMELY difficult to get a guaranteed or desirable result.

When receiving color correction we recommend the following:

Use appropriate professional level, paraben +sulfate free, color safe shampoos and conditioners. Drugstore brands contain 85% water, waxes, parabens, and although may say they are color safe they do not work as effectively. You invested in a new color- so make sure to maintain it with recommended products! We are loving Moroccan Oil Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner as they make even the most damaged hair behave for you  better.

Bring home a deep conditioning treatment like Moroccan Oil Restorative Mask to help rehab your hair so the color will stay longer in addition to repairing damage with argan oil and a little protein.

Use a good leave in product like Moroccan Oil  or Moroccan Oil Light. The antioxidants and U.V. inhibitor properties will help protect your new color from fadeage and also acts as a great thermal protectant during heat styling.

Lookin’ to dramatically change your haircolor? Book with an Emerson Salon Stylist ¬†by contacting them specifically for a consult!