Articles from ‘Hair Science’

Friday, July 14th, 2017

Direct Dye Dilemmas

 

We’ve had an upsurge of clients coming in with trendy, vibrant hair colors in their hair, and wanting to remove them. The vibrant colors (like those in the image below) are direct dyes. It is not as easy as just applying one step and getting what you want (unfortunately we can do great things with hair -but there are limits.) The problem with semi permanents like these is they are not guaranteed to last for longer than 10 shampoos and may be less with pastel hues or on bleach damaged or compromised hair. Ironically, if you want to remove them they can be a real bother!

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Direct dyes do not require oxidation or developer for the color to stain the hair. In areas where the hair is¬†more porous, this type of color will show greater intensity. Caution must be exercised when utilizing a semi-permanent haircolor on porous hair; it can stain the hair¬†permanently.”¬†(From the American Board of Certified Colorists haircolorist.com)

 

Sometimes, using strong bleaches will make the direct dye go further into the hair shaft and lodge even more stubbornly inside the hair. There are ways to strategically fade or remove the direct dye but having it professionally done is COLOR CORRECTIVE.

(Color correction work includes working with removing artificial pigment, coloring hair with previous color history, or deepening or lightening more than 3 levels. )

There is NO GUARANTEE in removing direct dyes. It may take multiple sessions to achieve- it may even not be possible to completely remove without cutting it out. If its a blue, green, or teal-like hue, it can be VERY difficult to remove.  

If you want to help the fade along you can do the following:

  • Use dish or liquid ¬†laundry detergent with harsh sulfates to aggressively emulsify out the color
  • ¬†Add 50o mg of crushed Vitamin C and/or Baking Soda to your professional level sulfate free shampoo (leave on for 45 minutes and rinse+condition)
  • Soak your hair in bath salts for 40 minutes then shampoo and condition

If you are asking a stylist to remove it, we recommend asking for a mild bleach+ clarifying shampoo with Olaplex treatment at the shampoo bowl. That way you are removing the color mildly, with a little insurance against breakage. This can remove some of the color and then the remainder can be bleached out once 90% faded.

****If the above methods do not work****

-Take a break, and deep condition your hair twice a week before attempting to remove it again.

And remember…we may be able to do magic with haircolor, but we have no magic wand for every hair situation!

Hairstylists do their absolute best to counsel you on the risks of certain services as well as trying to make you happy…

Have more questions?

Book a color consultation with one of our independent hair designers at www.emersonsalon.com today!

Friday, July 7th, 2017

Curly Hair Got You Down?

Here’s a Great Tip- If your curls are limp and not bouncing with joy, a clarifying treatment will perk them right up.
I have curly hair also, and most of my life has been spent fighting it instead of trying to understand and work with it. I use Kevin Murphy’s Maxi Wash exfoliating shampoo once a week to get the product out and give my curls a fresh canvas to work on- it does make a noticeable difference!
Great Styling Tips:
 After shampooing and conditioning your hair, leave your hair extremely wet, and apply a leave-in conditioner to soften any hard hold product you might be using in your hair.
  • Apply any styling product to your hair. *If using more than one, be sure to thoroughly apply one product before applying another, unless you can easily cocktail them in your hands (some products separate when trying this.)
  • Don’t skimp- apply ALOT of product to your hair. Make sure to apply your hair product to your hands as if you’re applying lotion to them- get the product through, behind, and around all of your fingers, because curly hair is 360 degrees- your product application ought to be too!
  • Using a very wide toothed comb, comb the product upwards into your hair for added height. *Don’t over-comb, as this will interrupt your natural curl.
  • If your hair is flat on top, and you’d like to add height, clip curly hair sections at the root before blow drying.
  • Speaking of blow drying, ALWAYS use a diffuser attachment on your hair dryer when drying curly hair textures. They make great ones now, and most consumer diffusers are universal.

Thursday, September 29th, 2016

We Love Color.Me!

colormeimage   In the cosmetology industry, it is important to stay knowledgeable on new technologies in hair color and hair products because innovations in ingredients and trends are ever-changing. To that end, Emerson Salon colorists have started to encounter more and more people with sensitivities and allergies to ammonia and PPD and have wanted to broach this issue for our clienteles.

What is PPD? Phenylenediamine (or PPD) is an organic compound used in hair dyes, as well as in rubber chemicals, textile dyes and pigments. Manufacturers like it because it has a low relative toxicity level, high temperature stability, and chemical and electrical resistance. In other words, it helps the new color stay on your hair despite numerous washings, dryings, and stylings. (from http://www.annmariegianni.com/)

Why is PPD “bad?”¬†The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) notes the following:

-PPD is potentially capable of causing multiple toxic effects following skin contact.

-Data from studies of both humans and animals are sufficient to demonstrate that PPD has potent skin-sensitizing properties.

-Several cases of contact dermatitis have been reported following occupational exposure to dyes containing the chemical.

-Studies have also identified the chemical as the third most common ingredient, after fragrances and preservatives, that can cause contact dermatitis from cosmetics (mainly skin-care products, hair preparations and colorants, and facial makeup products).

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We listened and have taken on the NEW color line Color.Me Kevin Murphy that is PPD FREE, Ammonia Free, Cruelty free and the ONLY PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) approved hair color line. We are so excited! If you look at the image to the left- you will see a color that prematurely faded on resistant grey hair with ammonia based permanent hair color. Then, observe the after as well as the ZERO fadeage after 3 weeks. WOW! What a difference! Check out more before and afters below!

 

 

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Here is some more information on its features+ ingredients:

  1. Color. Me is a performance driven line which means it is highly predictable and has minimal fade-age.
  2. It has a wonderful rose tea fragrance and barely any chemical smell at all because it is an MEA ammonia derivative and not actual ammonia.
  3. It causes next to no skin irritation and does not stain like ammonia based hair color.
  4.  It contains: shea butter, pomengranate, aloe vera, grapeseed oil, panthenol, almond oil (those with allergies to nuts may be sensitive,) coconut oil and most importantly, HONEY!
  5. The haircolor will never spoil or expire because of the sugars contained in the honey base.
  6. The line is designed for custom formulation and can be made semi, demi or permanent based on the artistic choices of the colorist as well as the desires of the client.
  7.  Has 3 types of bleaches: cream/oil based, ammonia based and non-ammonia lighteners give the professional the control to determine how much damage and lift is incurred on the hair.

  Want to have Color. Me by Kevin Murphy haircolor for your next all over color or balayage?

Book with Jason, D’Arcy, Lancer, or Esther on emersonsalon.com as they are loving the results as they continue to work with it and are delighted to try it on you! Read the rest of this entry

Wednesday, January 6th, 2016

Hair Resolutions 2016

 

Are you making changes for 2016? Well, we have some ideas to help create and maintain beautiful hair in the New Year for you!

heattoolsMake a resolution to be smarter when using your heat tools: 

-Use heat tools that use ceramic or tourmaline plates that help maintain your cuticle layer with controls that allow you to adjust the temperature. An on or off switch shows you no indication as to what level of damage you may be doing to your hair. We recommend digital heat tools that show you specifically what temperature range you are in.

-Always use a thermal protectant. We hear from a lot of clients that they are curling or flat ironing without a barrier to heat damage. Doing this can cause holes in your outer hair structure and make it difficult for your hair to retain quality moisture ¬†and haircolor in your hair. We recommend MoroccanOil’s Original Treatment or Nourishing Oil By Loma. They are dry oils, are conditioning and will prevent high heat from burning your cuticle layer.

-Control the temperature for your hair type. There is no need to use over 350 degrees on fine, delicate hair. Thicker hair needs 400-450 degrees.

-If your hair is fine or chemically damaged DO NOT use the flatiron to curl your ends. It creates too much stress on the hair and will make it break 5x faster.

trimDedicate yourself to regular hair trims, color refreshes, and deep conditioning.

-Hair trims are your best defense against split ends. Even if you are growing your hair out longer it is a good idea to keep the ends freshened up so the oldest hair is not prone to breakage. For short to medium hair schedule every 4-7 weeks. For medium to long hair schedule every 6-10 weeks.

-Does your color get dull and murky looking after about 6-8 weeks? Schedule a conditioning color refresh with your colorist. Some shades (like semi permanents, reds and pastels) fade quicker and need more maintenance to keep them looking shiny and saturated. If you recently received a bleach and tone it will be necessary to keep it toned regularly to battle brassiness or maintain tonal stability.

-You can schedule a deep conditioning treatment with a hair designer or you can do one at home. In salon treatments tend to last longer because some of them use heat to penetrate to the structure inside the hair. We recommend MoroccanOil’s Restorative Hair Masque or Intense Hydrating Masque. These are easy to do at home once a week for dry or damaged hair in 5-15 minutes. Using moisture or moisture with protein will assist in keeping your hair’s health and manageability. (Some stylists use a disulfide mending OLAPLEX in salon as a treatment. Inquire at Emerson Salon with D’Arcy ¬†for this service.)

Make sure to listen to your hair professional’s recommendations

on professional products for your hair type.

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mo -Stylists work with many, many heads of hair a day and know which products will work best for your hair type and styling regimen. So listen and learn!

-Products sold from a professional salon are the highest quality, do not contain extra water and are more concentrated than other store brands. Don’t trust Amazon, Bartell’s, CVS or Costco for your hair products. They could be expired, contain high levels of bacteria or be counterfeit.

-Your stylist makes the recommendations that will help you recreate the look done inside the salon. Reward them by giving them the sale and not an online outlet or store. Your stylist has your hair’s health and style as a high priority in order for you to become or stay a returning customer.

-If a product doesn’t work for you, ask if you can exchange the product for one that does. No sense in keeping a product that you do not like the smell or isn’t optimal for you.

Your “Hair Resolutions” in 2016 can be upheld if you follow these easy steps. And remember- your hair is an investment! The more you put into your hair, the happier you will be with it!

Saturday, November 7th, 2015

Loma Conscientious Personal Care Products

 

Meet Emerson Salon‚Äôs newest haircare line addition: Loma Haircare.¬†Loma products work great, smell great, and are very economically priced and locally made (in Monroe, WA). Loma also prints their own bottles, blends their own products, and fills their own bottles, which makes the company ‚Äúone of the last independently owned and operated brands in the professional beauty industry actually manufacturing 100% of its own products.‚ÄĚ

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Loma believes in Renewable, Sustainable Beauty; containing naturally healing, organic ingredients and essential oil based fragrances that embrace this belief.¬†‚ÄúLoma pioneered and set the standard for the use of Certified Organic Aloe Vera Gel, the primary base for all Loma products.‚ÄĚ

Aloe Leaf

 

Loma has been around since 1991, and the company used to have 2 lines: Pearatin and Loma. Hair Guy Lancer, Emerson Salon co-owner, had used Peratin in the past (2004-2006), and a few of his clients really loved one particular product, ‚ÄúPearatin Fortifying Repairative Serum‚ÄĚ. It really is one of the stand-out products in the line, and it has since been re-named ‚ÄúFortifying Repairative Tonic‚ÄĚ.¬†This product is phenomenal. It improves hair‚Äôs ¬†elasticity, which eliminates breakage, improves the hair‚Äôs condition and integrity, resulting in less breakage due to over-use of heat and chemical processes, and in fewer split ends. This tonic will help your hair stay nice and smooth when blowdrying at home. ¬†

Pearatin

“I love this stuff! Since I’ve started using it, I get tons of compliments about the softness and shine of my hair. Unlike all the other serums I’d tried, this one doesn’t weigh my hair down and it doesn’t have an overpowering chemical smell. Highly recommend this serum for all types of hair.” –From makeupalley.com

When Loma had the two lines, it was very confusing! Though Loma’s product lines consolidated, and their packaging changed, the ingredients remain the same. Loma now is a clearly defined line that’s in keeping with their organic heritage and Aloe Vera based products, and they’re much easier to understand and use (also, they only kept the best products from each line!) If you have any questions for Loma, join their Facebook Community, and ask away!

Thursday, September 24th, 2015

Salon Confessional #2

It seems our salon fans love hearing about the inside scoop from stylists within our salon-

so we are doing another SALON CONFESSIONAL!

 

true-confessions

Why doesn’t my fashion color last past a month?

Many ladies are coming in wanting the trendy purple, teal, pale pinks, lilac or grey “granny hair.” What this entails is bleaching the hair to the lightest possible blond in order for a pastel shade to show up. This may mean that it cannot be achieved in one session depending on what history is already on your hair. Generally, pastel and vivid extreme colors are semi-permanent. Semi-permanents are direct dyes ¬†(meaning they sit on top of the hair) and last between 10-16 shampoos -but may be even less if it is a pastel shade. Pastels have no guaranteed longevity and are completely temporary. It is not the stylist’s “fault” if it doesn’t last as long as you would prefer. The nature of the service can be extremely damaging even on the healthiest of hair and can compromise the hairs’ ability to hold color in addition to the nature of the semi-permanent shade used to create the selected hue. Using appropriate sulfate free, professional level, color safe products assists in keeping the color but does not guarantee how long it will last.

Why is my hair so dry and damaged after I get highlights?

  • Bleach is an entirely different chemical process than coloring your hair. Bleach aggressively breaks up the hair’s pigment with chemical explosions and results in breaking apart the hair’s structure. Then, we can go in with a semi, demi or permanent color to create the tonality we wish to make that will assist also in holding the hair’s structure together. Hair can become frizzy and porous with the potential of breakage when bleached. Previously colored hair must be bleached in order for it to become lighter so if you have dark color on your hair, the only choice for a stylist is to use bleach.

Why are men’s haircut prices less than women’s longer hair prices?

  • ¬†One of our stylists, Michael Simons has great insight on this with his over 20 years ¬†of experience. “I tell clients that the amount of $ and time I put into training to execute women’s and longer haircuts is extensively more than for men’s shorter haircuts.” With men’s haircuts you are looking at a span of 4-6 weeks between cuts. With women a bad haircut could take years to grow out so the work entailed must be top notch.
  • D’Arcy, co-owner of Emerson Salon also adds,”I take into account the amount of time and product (shampoo, conditioner + styling product) used in the service. The more hair left on the head the higher the price of the haircut. Also, the price is also based on the training I received for the service. For example, I spent a few years learning advanced color knowledge and haircutting techniques. For men’s cutting I spent 4-6 months learning how to use clippers appropriately. “

What’s the biggest piece of advice for a client ¬†in your chair?

  • Michael Simons says that clients need to feel the liberty to speak up in the chair. “I take it as a compliment when people are able to tell me something they do not like about their cut or color in the chair. You trust me as a professional to take the feedback and try to rectify the problem.”
  • No stylist wants you to be unhappy with your hair. Creating a style you are satisfied with needs to come from a space that feels safe for you to communicate. Also, getting defensive about our work does not create long lasting clientele and most hair professionals are able to take the critique with poise and grace. So tell us how you really feel (respectfully of course!) We can handle it!

Have we dispelled some myths for you?

We hope so! We are here to make sure our clients understand what is entailed for their hair services at Emerson Salon. We always recommend researching a new style or hair color before embarking on a new look! Ask your stylist lots of questions in the consultation about pricing, recommended care and maintenance and get the best possible service for you and your budget.

Book with an Emerson Salon independent stylist through their profile today!

go to www.emersonsalon.com and select a stylist to book online!

Wednesday, August 26th, 2015

Why Should I Use Dry Shampoo?

Dry shampoo has become extremely popular in the last few years for people with all hair types. From teenagers to professionals to artists- everyone loves using dry shampoo! When we were in beauty school, our teachers used to instruct us to use drugstore dry shampoo when an elderly client was in the hospital and couldn’t shampoo their hair. ¬†Times have changed and there are many more quality dry shampoos to choose from.

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Now we use dry shampoo to assist in lengthening the time between shampoos. People apply it to the internal sections of the hairstyle in order to avoid it being seen along the hairline or root areas.

Also, in order to preserve any color (whether semi, demi or permanent) you want to shampoo as little as possible. Each time you shampoo, you lift up the hair cuticle. The hair cuticle is the layer of hinges that protect the inner structure of the hair, the cortex (see image above.) Your hair color lives in the cortex and the more exposed the cortex is the more it will fade.

To cleanse the hair, shampoo emulsifies the product and dirt out but it also oxidizes your beautiful haircolor ¬†and it slowly goes down the drain. Shampooing less frequently can be really challenging for anyone who works out at the gym on a regular basis or has fine hair that “greases” up quicker. In the¬†summer time you are one hot day away from¬†your ‘do becoming¬†completely altered by sweat and oil!¬†That is why we advise clients to¬†use dry shampoo, but we always try to educate on the best practices and why you use it.

Our scalp is part of our dermal system and the follicles release oil (known as sebum) to lubricate the hair as it grows. We also sweat from our scalp which can double or triple the oil that gets onto the hair. Sebum¬†is our hair’s best leave-in conditioner but it can cause hair to become limp or weighted down. To battle this, the dry shampoo stops the oil transfer from the scalp to the hair and elongates the time between shampoos.

We carry several different dry shampoos here at Emerson Salon. Here we detail the benefits of each:

dryshampoo

     Alterna Caviar Dry Shampoo is a powder based shampoo. We LOVE it! Its great for ALL hair types and the powder is so fine it feels like water when you apply it. It has anti-aging caviar extract in it and is very economical. If you use it every day, it may take a couple months to get through. It is very difficult to over use since you can see the powder. We recommend putting it above the ears, under your part line and through the nape. Use your fingers to evenly disperse it once applied. It is also Talc free which means it will not build up on your scalp or cause the hair follicle to become blocked.

TIP: To create more volume, try spray a flexible hairspray on the roots from below the section once the dry shampoo is applied.

¬† ¬† ¬†¬†Fresh Hair by Kevin Murphy is a spray based dry shampoo. This is great for fine to medium hair types as it is lighter than a powder based dry shampoo. They call it a “dry cleaning spray,” which is a great description as it removes oils and odor without water or detergents. It smells like a light baby powder.¬†

The one downside of using dry shampoo is that the dirt and oil will build up at the scalp with the dry shampoo so it is important to cleanse it properly. Using a clarifier is NOT recommended as this type of shampoo has a higher ph and can strip the color you have been working so hard to protect. You can use a lower ph detox shampoo that works similarly in removing the buildup but will not suck the color out in the process. Removing this scalp buildup is very important as keeping your hair follicle unblocked is crucial to hair health and growth

¬†Maxi Wash by Kevin Murphy is a color safe detox shampoo that uses alpha hydroxy to exfoliate out oil, product and dirt buildup. ¬†It will not lift up the cuticle layer like a clarifying shampoo but will gently cleanse the scalp and hair. It is recommended to use this shampoo repeatedly until you get a nice thick, meringue type lather. If it doesn’t lather- rinse and repeat. You can follow this with your regular paraben and sulfate free conditioner- we recommend Kevin Murhpy’s Hydrate.Me Rinse with moisturizing kakadu plum.¬†

 

Monday, August 3rd, 2015

The Mind-Hair Connection

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    Daily, a hairstylist may come in to contact with between 3

and 8 clients depending on the types of services rendered,

schedule and hours worked. Multiply that times 4-5 days a week 4 weeks a month and so on-

That is a lot of people!  When you think about it-

being a hairstylist does not just require technical skill in haircutting, hair color formulation or techniques. It incorporates many facets and factors to becoming successful as a hairstylist.

The primary focus of teaching hairstylists in¬†cosmetology school is to learn safety and sanitation and to pass a State licensing board exam. Unfortunately, it is not always the place where the fine art and science of psychology is taught. Having a working understanding of how humans behave and think is key to your stylist executing a service that makes you happy. Its always best to put a little research into your new stylist to increase the likelihood of clicking with them. You don’t have to be best friends but relating well to one other is HIGHLY important.

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PSYCHOLOGY: is the study of mind and behavior. It is an academic discipline and an applied science which seeks to understand individuals and groups by establishing general principles and researching specific cases. (Wikipedia)

Most stylists rely on instinct, their learned craft, their personality and the client when executing services. However, it is generally known that this takes time, experience and some trial and error to discover what is successful. That could take years. It is NOT easy. It isn’t a black and white process. You cannot memorize or robotically learn the subtle nuances of ¬†human behavior. However, with focus and dedication a stylist’s unique brand¬†of learned awareness and understanding can be cultivated.

EMPATHY: is the capacity to understand or feel what another person is experiencing from within the other person’s frame of reference (Wikipedia)

The #1 skill that cannot be taught to a hair stylist is the ability to have empathy for the client and their desires and needs. The second a stylist isn’t on the same page with their hair client that is when mistakes ¬†can happen through miscommunication, frustration and misunderstanding.

If you feel like your stylist doesn’t care- why give them your $? ¬†Its the old expression,”Put yourself in their shoes.” It seems easy but it’s harder than it seems- especially if the other person is the yin to your yang! ¬†How do¬†you know if a stylist cares about you and what you say? Simple: When you feel like they listened to you but also processed and heard what you said and WHY. This can be done by reflecting or repeating what you said back to you.

EFFECTIVE LISTENING¬†includes maintaining eye contact, being relaxed and attentive, keeping an open mind, try to picture what the speaker is saying, not interrupting or imposing a “fix,” asking clarifying questions. (forbes.com)

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The next time you try out a new stylist- feel free to incorporate some of these items like a checklist.

Being in someone’s hair chair is a 2 way street and if you feel like your relationship is one-sided, the stylist isn’t executing what you ask for, isn’t listening and seems to be bored or annoyed with taking care of clients- it may be time to move on to someone who better suits your needs and personality.

Want to experiment with a new hair professional in Seattle who fits with your special needs? 

Peruse our stylist profiles and book with one automatically at Emersonsalon.com!

All of our stylists are independently run and have years of experience in the field.

Where we believe it is essential to be

“For Style That Works!”