Articles from ‘Olaplex’

Wednesday, January 6th, 2016

Hair Resolutions 2016

 

Are you making changes for 2016? Well, we have some ideas to help create and maintain beautiful hair in the New Year for you!

heattoolsMake a resolution to be smarter when using your heat tools: 

-Use heat tools that use ceramic or tourmaline plates that help maintain your cuticle layer with controls that allow you to adjust the temperature. An on or off switch shows you no indication as to what level of damage you may be doing to your hair. We recommend digital heat tools that show you specifically what temperature range you are in.

-Always use a thermal protectant. We hear from a lot of clients that they are curling or flat ironing without a barrier to heat damage. Doing this can cause holes in your outer hair structure and make it difficult for your hair to retain quality moisture  and haircolor in your hair. We recommend Moroccan Oil Original Treatment or Nourishing Oil By Loma. They are dry oils, are conditioning and will prevent high heat from burning your cuticle layer.

-Control the temperature for your hair type. There is no need to use over 350 degrees on fine, delicate hair. Thicker hair needs 400-450 degrees.

-If your hair is fine or chemically damaged DO NOT use the flatiron to curl your ends. It creates too much stress on the hair and will make it break 5x faster.

trimDedicate yourself to regular hair trims, color refreshes, and deep conditioning.

-Hair trims are your best defense against split ends. Even if you are growing your hair out longer it is a good idea to keep the ends freshened up so the oldest hair is not prone to breakage. For short to medium hair schedule every 4-7 weeks. For medium to long hair schedule every 6-10 weeks.

-Does your color get dull and murky looking after about 6-8 weeks? Schedule a conditioning color refresh with your colorist. Some shades (like semi permanents, reds and pastels) fade quicker and need more maintenance to keep them looking shiny and saturated. If you recently received a bleach and tone it will be necessary to keep it toned regularly to battle brassiness or maintain tonal stability.

-You can schedule a deep conditioning treatment with a hair designer or you can do one at home. In salon treatments tend to last longer because some of them use heat to penetrate to the structure inside the hair. We recommend Restorative Hair Masque or Intense Hydrating Masque. These are easy to do at home once a week for dry or damaged hair in 5-15 minutes. Using moisture or moisture with protein will assist in keeping your hair’s health and manageability. (Some stylists use a disulfide mending OLAPLEX in salon as a treatment. Inquire at Emerson Salon with D’Arcy ¬†for this service.)

Make sure to listen to your hair professional’s recommendations

on professional products for your hair type.

km

mo -Stylists work with many, many heads of hair a day and know which products will work best for your hair type and styling regimen. So listen and learn!

-Products sold from a professional salon are the highest quality, do not contain extra water and are more concentrated than other store brands. Don’t trust Amazon, Bartell’s, CVS or Costco for your hair products. They could be expired, contain high levels of bacteria or be counterfeit.

-Your stylist makes the recommendations that will help you recreate the look done inside the salon. Reward them by giving them the sale and not an online outlet or store. Your stylist has your hairs’ health and style as a high priority in order for you to become or stay a returning customer.

-If a product doesn’t work for you, ask if you can exchange the product for one that does. No sense in keeping a product that you do not like the smell or isn’t optimal for you.

Your “Hair Resolutions” in 2016 can be upheld if you follow these easy steps. And remember- your hair is an investment! The more you put into your hair, the happier you will be with it!

Wednesday, September 30th, 2015

Direct Dye Dilemmas

IMPORTANT NOTE:

Having semi permanent or direct dye color needs constant upkeep to maintain the color 

and has no guarantee how long it will last! If a semi permanent fades out, book another paid service to redeposit it.¬†There is also no guarantee on the complete removal of direct dyes….

¬† ¬† ¬†We have had some ladies come in with trendy, vibrant hair colors in their hair ….and wanting to remove them. The vibrant colors (like those in the image below) are direct dyes. It is not as easy as just applying one step and getting what you want (unfortunately we can do great things with hair -but there are limits.) The problem with semi permanents like these is they are not guaranteed to last for longer than 10 shampoos and may be less with pastel hues or on bleach damaged or compromised hair. Ironically, if you want to remove them they can be a real bother!

kristen afterbluehairteal

pasteltealpastelss

Direct dyes do not,¬†require oxidation or developer for the color to stain the hair. In areas where the hair is¬†more porous, this type of color will show greater intensity. Caution must be exercised when utilizing a semi-permanent haircolor on porous hair; it can stain the hair¬†permanently.”¬†(From the American Board of Certified Colorists haircolorist.com)

Sometimes, using strong bleaches will make the direct dye go further into the hair shaft and lodge even more stubbornly inside the hair. There are ways to strategically fade or remove the direct dye but having it professionally done is COLOR CORRECTIVE.(Color correction work includes working with removing artificial pigment, coloring hair with previous color history, or deepening or lightening more than 3 levels. )

There is NO GUARANTEE in removing direct dyes. It may take multiple sessions to achieve- it may even not be possible to completely remove without cutting it out. If its a blue, green, or teal like hue it will be VERY difficult to remove.  

If you want to help the fade along you can do the following:

  • Use dish or liquid ¬†laundry detergent with harsh sulfates to aggressively emulsify out the color
  • ¬†Add 50o mg of crushed Vitamin C and/or Baking Soda to your professional level sulfate free shampoo (leave on for 45 minutes and rinse+condition)
  • Soak your hair in bath salts for 40 minutes then shampoo and condition

If you are asking a stylist to remove it, we recommend asking for a mild bleach+ clarifying shampoo with Olaplex treatment at the shampoo bowl. That way you are removing the color midly with a little insurance against breakage. This can remove some of the color and then the remainder can be bleached out once 90% faded.

****If the above methods do not work****

-take a break and deep condition twice a week before you attempt to remove it again.

And remember….. we may be able to do magic with haircolor but we have no magic wand for every hair situation!

Hairstylists do their absolute best to counsel you on the risks of certain services as well as trying to make you happy….

Have more questions?

Book a color consultation with one of our independent hair designers at www.emersonsalon.com

Thursday, May 7th, 2015

Olaplex Revolution

olaplex1

In the cosmetology profession it is very important to stay current not only on trends and new application techniques but new innovations in chemical technology. There is a new system that is making hair colorists go NUTS! Its called OLAPLEX.

The system was designed by organic chemists who wanted to “solve problems” and the biggest challenge facing the haircoloring industry is the issue of breakage. More and more, people are asking for trends that demand getting the hair lighter, faster and with less breakage.

This is where Olaplex comes in. Hair is keratin proteins that are made up of disulfide bonds. These bonds are linked together and can get broken down during a lightening or haircoloring service. This system helps mend those bonds as they are broken so hair can accept more extreme changes with less likelihood of breakage. Its important to understand that it doesn’t guarantee against breakage but minimizes its probability.

Famous colorists from Tracy Cunningham, Guy Tang, Sally Hershberger and many others have been experimenting with the 3 step system and are loving the results.¬†One of our owners, D’Arcy Harrison, picked some up to try and was impressed with the results.

Kristen had Natural Level 5 hair and wanted to try the new extreme color ombre trend. In order to achieve the look she asked for it required lifting the hair over 3 levels through some very orange and gold stages. The goal was to get her hair to level 10 and 11 so the semi-permanent blue/violet and silver would show up appropriately.

NOTE: Whenever the hair is lightened or darkened 3 levels or more this is called “COLOR CORRECTIVE WORK.” Special care and expertise is required in order to achieve predictable results. Additionally, the service can cost more because of extra time and product used due to its corrective nature.

D’Arcy combined the It&lyHairfashion Easily Blond Bleach and 40 vol with the No. 1 Olaplex Bond Multiplier. She then applied the bleach in a feathered balayage technique and put Kristen under heat for 10 min.

kristenbeforekristen after

D’Arcy was amazed! The hair on the ends was a level 10 and the midshaft was a level 7/8. So D’Arcy mixed up some more bleach and olaplex and applied to the darker areas and let process for another 20 min. at air temperature. Then the hair was rinsed and the No.2 Bond Perfector was added at the shampoo bowl for 5-10min. The hair was then roughly dried and the Pravanna Vivids Blue and Violet were applied to the midshaft with Silver with a dash of Blue blended into the ends. Kristen was put under a medium heat dryer to drive in the semipermanent in order to make it last longer. The entire service was over 3 hours long. There is a No.3 to the Olaplex system for at home care following the service but Kristen opted for some Moroccan Oil Hydrating Shampoo, Conditioner and Weightless Hydrating Mask as the argan oil moisture helps hair stay flexible and not brittle.

Kristen did suffer some breakage on the last 2 inches of her hair ¬†(it was coiling and turning gummy) so D’Arcy did some strategic cutting and carving to eliminate the damage from the hair once dried and styled. But what is important is the hair got lighter faster, with less breakage and with more even results.

We will continue to keep experimenting in the salon with it as its very important to understand how to work with new products before using them on paying clients. If an individual indepependently run stylist  at Emerson Salon chooses to add this as an amenity it could be an add-on charge to any coloring service.

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