Articles from ‘Olaplex’

Thursday, April 9th, 2020

Support Your Hair Pro & Avoid Home Hair Disasters

Written by D’Arcy Harrison, Co- Owner of Emerson Salon

At the current moment— the “Stay Home, Stay Safe” order is in full effect in WA state until May 4th, 2020 however the Cosmetology sector is unclear that May 4th will be the GO TIME date for salons and barbershops. Washingtonians are already getting stir crazy but across the country, most states have only justs followed suit on social distancing and doing their best to adhere to emerging announcements from the CDC and WHO.

Hairstylists, colorists, assistants, barbers, receptionists, managers, owners, distributor reps and many more inside the beauty industry are out of work. No income.

Donate to ProBeauty.Org
for hair pros in need

DEALING WITH AMBIGUITY: There are no assurances when these personal care businesses will be allowed to open again. Whether a small business owner, employer, or employee- calling it an industry ripple is a gross understatement- this is like an earthquake and tsunami COMBINED. The “NEW New World” is one where it is now possible to force all hair related businesses to halt in order to avoid breaking the 6ft Social Distancing guidelines. To help support our industry- donate at the image to your left.

Panic, anxiety, fear, sadness, anger and disbelief are just some of the emotions we have felt. Many are unsure how they are supposed to support their families with no income for weeks on end. Many working class workers like hairstylists barely make enough $ over the cost of living in some areas and could never be prepared for a disaster of this nature. It is a huge wake-up call to small businesses that having a rainy day fund or 2 weeks worth of savings just is not enough to weather a shut down of this nature. Business interruption coverage on insurance is not being approved 100% of the time by insurance companies. This was a rude awakening to many who felt they would have a safety net through that avenue.

Email from WA State DOL

“How do you do hair with social distancing?The brutal answer is you don’t. No hair anywhere. The WA State Dept Of Licensing issued clarification and reiterated –—- NO HAIR CAN BE CONDUCTED ANYWHERE

It is a temporary law that if broken carries the risk of losing licensure, up to $5000 fine and up to one year in jail. Additionally, continuing to do hair services ignores the reason we need to stop doing business- the virus and the potential of losing lives. Additionally, our license does not permit creating custom color kits for clients or resale of professional products. A pro must formulate, mix and apply themselves according to licensure. Color manufacturers generally will not support it and neither will an insurance company if something goes wrong. Additionally, the stylist or barber themselves need to stay home and stay safe to avoid contagion. If they are exposed- they risk having to quarantine away from family as well as possible illness and/or death. Stay Home. Stay Safe.

So WHAT ARE hair pros doing while they cannot work?

Hair industry professionals continue supporting their businesses and have come up with some creative options as well as ways to spend their time while in quarantine.

Online Education

LEARNING: Many manufacturers and distributors have stepped up to offer free live and recorded education daily on social media or on their website platforms. This means your pro will be STRONGER when they return as they have been starved for stretching their skills while disconnected from being able to service clients. If you are a hair pro- we recommend these pages for products we love: Love Kevin Murphy facebook page, Moroccan Oil Pro or Olaplex Users facebook group .

COMMUNITY: Stylists, owners, employees and more convene online in social media groups on Facebook. Sharing videos on TikTok. Sharing their Instagram handles. Sharing funny hair and quarantine related memes. Making videos and resources to inspire and support the mental health of those struggling with the new paradigm. Motivating each other to stay strong, come together and to persist. “We will get through this together,” is the ironic mantra of many. If you are a Washington State hair pro- we recommend joining the Facebook Groups for The Sovereign Stylist and Cosmetologists of WA United. (If you become an enrolled Member Advocate you can get access to exclusive content on an ADVOCATES ONLY Cosmetologists United Facebook Group. Disclaimer: Co-Owner of Emerson Salon D’Arcy Harrison is one of the new association leaders at COWU.)

ALTERNATE INCOME STREAMS: Companies have shifted into high gear to offer ability to create custom online stores and affiliate programs so hairstylists and barbers can earn income recommending products to their clients for at home use and earning a commission. In some instances, companies have raised the commission to support the crisis of so many losing their incomes overnight.

Sell Gift Cards Online, allow 1 per service in small increments

Many pros have also created email and text messaging to their clientele to purchase gift cards for future services through Square or other online POS/gift card platforms. Many hoping to protect their income in the future utilize a policy of smaller gift card amounts that allow for use of one gift card per service.

LOANS and UNEMPLOYMENT: Simply put- workers who are employed by a company or individual and have a paycheck with taxes taken out had practically instant access to WA state Unemployment Insurance since they had paid into the programs. The self-employed, independent contractors and small businesses did not. It wasn’t until the federal CARE Act was enacted that aa glimmer of hope was given to those without any income stream. There is, however, patience required in the face of confusion and chaos and as the new programs were slowly rolled out. Banks and applicants are learning new details as they emerge daily if not hourly.

Most programs are accessed via SBA.gov

1) Some people are eliglible for the PPP (Payment Protection Program) and some are not. 2) Most if not all self employed are eligible for the EIDL (Economic Injury Disaster Loan) but the processing may take weeks- which means more ambiguity. 3) Pandemic Unemployment Assistance (PUA) is now possible for part-time and self-employed workers but each state has to create a new platform to deal with workers who never qualified for their state UI in the past. In WA State, they announced April 18th is the target of the PUA roll out but most anticipate continued challenges as record numbers apply for assistance—even MORE ambiguity. There are rumblings that the CARE Act is just the first step in many steps the federal gov’t will make to support the unemployed and small businesses. We think we are maxed out on ambiguity right now!

Additionally, WA State just announced a new grant system that is doled out per county and that can be accessed here: http://startup.choosewashingtonstate.com/covid-grants/ or if you have a small business near Amazon headquarters go to: https://www.aboutamazon.com/job-creation-and-investment/neighborhood-small-business-relief-fund

Hairstylists and barbers are extremely resilient, creative, passionate, strong, SPECIAL and tenacious individuals. Businesses are doing whatever they can to keep blood pumping to the heart and souls of the people who make the hair industry so special. We wish we could do hair right now! We ache for the day when we can get back to work and none of us likes the idea of sitting around for months — but if it means more will live through this danger we are begrudgingly complying. Reach out to your trusted hair pro and tell them you SUPPORT their struggles. Offer to buy them groceries, send them a gift card or just phone them up to help keep their spirits up. We usually are the “hair-apist” but now…you can give back to the ones you depend on and respect.

They need YOU as much as you need them!

WARNING:
Do not DIY

Licensed professionals inside the WA State Department Cosmetology are not permitted to instruct non-pros on how to use, mix or apply professional or non-professional color.We advise you strongly to remember that cheap grocery store color or randomly chosen shades can go horribly wrong without education or expertise.

Think it through—-Bright roots or blotchy color. Brassy orange bands or the color going way darker than you intended— OR WORSE it melts or breaks in obvious places. And then no pro is available to “fix” it and when they are able to fix it in a month or MORE—the cost is quadruple because you put something horribly difficult to remove into your hair.

Additionally, we ask you that you wait for us to get back to work to get your haircut. Yah- it will get shaggy but you are home and only doing internet conference calls right? Give yourself and others permission not to feel like they HAVE to adhere to a beauty standard right now. Isn’t that such a blessing? We can focus on what we DO for ourselves and each other instead of a superficial desire or

Need to cover gray???? Wear a hat, wear a scarf use mascara or eyeshadow or even Purchase a root spray! Need to rehab those damaged ends? Buy Olaplex no3 Hair Perfector! Hair feel dry? Get some Moroccan Oil! Need some styling wax or pomade– get some Kevin Murphy Night Rider or FreeHold! The possibilities are endless! Need a product consult? Contact D’Arcy or Lancer from Emerson Salon to ask for a recommendation.

SHOP WITH US!

We understand completely that it is frustrating to not be permitted to have a professional assist you in covering your grays or touch up that haircut. But we truthfully understand that hair and $ is not more important than lives. We are here for you for all your at home haircare.

A local artist named Glynn Erin did a fantastic job painting our boarded up business. Thanks Glynn! instagram.com/glynnrosenberg

See it as LIBERATION from society telling you how to look! If you want to do your hair up its for YOU and your mental health. Its for the nourishment of your hair and follicles and not a LOOK. Its for fun!

Think of it also as supporting your hair pro in SOLIDARITY! Many pros are running with campaigns to encourage clients to be patient with hashtags like #getrooted or #letitgrow. We recommend taking funny pics on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter and tagging us. We love staying connected with you— See ya in person on the other side Seattle!

Wednesday, February 7th, 2018

Show Us The Hair at ISSE2018!

This past Jan 26-29 was the International Salon and Spa Expo in Long Beach, CA.  This event convenes thousands of cosmetology professionals from around the world and is produced by the Professional Beauty Association: “is a non-profit that exists to elevate, unify and serve the beauty industry and the professionals who improve people’s lives.”

Co- owners D’Arcy Harrison and Lancer Forney-McMahon attended 2 days each. Both of them attended classes and presentations to further their skills in haircuts and haircolor. The energy of having that many pros in one area was exciting and overwhelming! So much to do and see!

D’Arcy attended “The Art of Technical Haircutting” by FHI and “Painting Balayage,” with #balaylama Candy Shaw. D’Arcy was methodical in her shopping for new items to amp up her  client experience in the salon for D’Arcy Hair Design.  She walked around the expo hall checking out all the booths on Saturday and came back after class on Sunday to pick up some new tools. She opted for a Sutra Beauty Infrared Blowdryer- “With Sutra’s Ionic Infrared Blow Dryer, infrared heat coats the hair strand deep inside the hair cuticle, heating from the inside of the hair shaft out, while protecting the outer layer of hair. ” D’Arcy also purchased a Hot Tools Curl Bar that uses a curl timer and a digital temperature readout as well as offering a more ergonomic experience for the stylist. To learn more about D’Arcy and request an appointment with her, visit her Website!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lancer attended “The Art of Razor Cutting and Color Movement” Hands-On class taught by CoCre8 duo Christopher Dove and John Simpson, and has been using techniques learned in this class on many of his clients, with much success!  He also attended a lecture about alopecia given by Jared Reynolds, Biomolecular Chemist, creator and founder of Zenagen Haircare, and is currently testing the Revolve system on his husband, with visible hair regrowth success already! After much learning, some entertainment was in order, and D’Arcy and Lancer enjoyed watching Ted Gibson and his team having fun with models onstage. Ted Gibson is the man behind Angelina Jolie’s hair and numerous other celebrities we’ve all seen on just about every magazine cover!

Day Two for Lancer was all about Wellness. Hair Guy Lancer, P.L.L.C. intends to stay working behind the chair for as long as he wants to, and toward that end, actively takes ownership of his health and body. What a treat to be able to learn from not just hairdressers but other professionals who   understand that our job is very physical, and that ergonomics, nutrition, medication, and other forms of self-care are crucial to our longevity in our industry! First was Healthy Haircutting by Guinness World Hair Cutting record breaker ClipperGuy Ivan Zoot. Ivan taught Lancer how to stay healthy behind the chair, during breaks, and how to deal with height differences between client and stylist, among other things! Lancer already meditates along with practicing Lo Jong mind training through a local Sangha, so he attended a meditation session that was very different (and will stick to his current methods, thank you very much!) but it was good to have a meditative space at the Expo! Lancer already cooks all of the food for himself and his husband at home, but is always looking for food preparation hacks. “Healthy Snacks for Hungry People, by Katrina Goldberg did not disappoint! Katrina showed Lancer how prepping more garlic than you need gives you “savings” for later in the week, and also affirmed that when you have things prepped at home, you’re way more inclined to eat at home as well as to use everything you’ve invested your hard labor into! Last but not least was all about not wrecking your body by using better office furniture, stretching, etc. To learn more about Lancer and request an appointment with him, visit his Website!

Another fun aspect to a convention of this type is the opportunity to interact with exciting hair color, hair tools and product companies selling deals and demonstrating techniques and products. We enjoyed seeing companies we work with in the salon such as Moroccan Oil, Olaplex, Pulp Riot, Pravana, Hot Tools, BABE extensions and many more.

We even ran into Seattle salon owner colleague, Daniel Keane (seen with D’Arcy far left), who owns Serenza Salon & Spa in Burien. He used to educate for us when we used a former color line and it was a joy to see him doing his thing demonstrating tools.

Staying up on current trends, education and technical info is the sign of strong hair designers who care about providing top notch service and quality results.

Join us in the salon and see our honed expertise by booking 24/7 online with emersonsalon.com.

(To see more pics from #ISSE2018 go to: https://probeauty.smugmug.com/Events/ISSE-Long-Beach)

Friday, July 14th, 2017

Direct Dye Dilemmas

 

We’ve had an upsurge of clients coming in with trendy, vibrant hair colors in their hair, and wanting to remove them. The vibrant colors (like those in the image below) are direct dyes. It is not as easy as just applying one step and getting what you want (unfortunately we can do great things with hair -but there are limits.) The problem with semi permanents like these is they are not guaranteed to last for longer than 10 shampoos and may be less with pastel hues or on bleach damaged or compromised hair. Ironically, if you want to remove them they can be a real bother!

kristen afterbluehairteal

pasteltealpastelss

Direct dyes do not require oxidation or developer for the color to stain the hair. In areas where the hair is more porous, this type of color will show greater intensity. Caution must be exercised when utilizing a semi-permanent haircolor on porous hair; it can stain the hair permanently.” (From the American Board of Certified Colorists haircolorist.com)

 

Sometimes, using strong bleaches will make the direct dye go further into the hair shaft and lodge even more stubbornly inside the hair. There are ways to strategically fade or remove the direct dye but having it professionally done is COLOR CORRECTIVE.

(Color correction work includes working with removing artificial pigment, coloring hair with previous color history, or deepening or lightening more than 3 levels. )

There is NO GUARANTEE in removing direct dyes. It may take multiple sessions to achieve- it may even not be possible to completely remove without cutting it out. If its a blue, green, or teal-like hue, it can be VERY difficult to remove.  

If you want to help the fade along you can do the following:

  • Use dish or liquid  laundry detergent with harsh sulfates to aggressively emulsify out the color
  •  Add 50o mg of crushed Vitamin C and/or Baking Soda to your professional level sulfate free shampoo (leave on for 45 minutes and rinse+condition)
  • Soak your hair in bath salts for 40 minutes then shampoo and condition

If you are asking a stylist to remove it, we recommend asking for a mild bleach+ clarifying shampoo with Olaplex treatment at the shampoo bowl. That way you are removing the color mildly, with a little insurance against breakage. This can remove some of the color and then the remainder can be bleached out once 90% faded.

****If the above methods do not work****

-Take a break, and deep condition your hair twice a week before attempting to remove it again.

And remember…we may be able to do magic with haircolor, but we have no magic wand for every hair situation!

Hairstylists do their absolute best to counsel you on the risks of certain services as well as trying to make you happy…

Have more questions?

Book a color consultation with one of our independent hair designers at www.emersonsalon.com today!

Wednesday, January 6th, 2016

Hair Resolutions 2016

 

Are you making changes for 2016? Well, we have some ideas to help create and maintain beautiful hair in the New Year for you!

heattoolsMake a resolution to be smarter when using your heat tools: 

-Use heat tools that use ceramic or tourmaline plates that help maintain your cuticle layer with controls that allow you to adjust the temperature. An on or off switch shows you no indication as to what level of damage you may be doing to your hair. We recommend digital heat tools that show you specifically what temperature range you are in.

-Always use a thermal protectant. We hear from a lot of clients that they are curling or flat ironing without a barrier to heat damage. Doing this can cause holes in your outer hair structure and make it difficult for your hair to retain quality moisture  and haircolor in your hair. We recommend MoroccanOil’s Original Treatment or Nourishing Oil By Loma. They are dry oils, are conditioning and will prevent high heat from burning your cuticle layer.

-Control the temperature for your hair type. There is no need to use over 350 degrees on fine, delicate hair. Thicker hair needs 400-450 degrees.

-If your hair is fine or chemically damaged DO NOT use the flatiron to curl your ends. It creates too much stress on the hair and will make it break 5x faster.

trimDedicate yourself to regular hair trims, color refreshes, and deep conditioning.

-Hair trims are your best defense against split ends. Even if you are growing your hair out longer it is a good idea to keep the ends freshened up so the oldest hair is not prone to breakage. For short to medium hair schedule every 4-7 weeks. For medium to long hair schedule every 6-10 weeks.

-Does your color get dull and murky looking after about 6-8 weeks? Schedule a conditioning color refresh with your colorist. Some shades (like semi permanents, reds and pastels) fade quicker and need more maintenance to keep them looking shiny and saturated. If you recently received a bleach and tone it will be necessary to keep it toned regularly to battle brassiness or maintain tonal stability.

-You can schedule a deep conditioning treatment with a hair designer or you can do one at home. In salon treatments tend to last longer because some of them use heat to penetrate to the structure inside the hair. We recommend MoroccanOil’s Restorative Hair Masque or Intense Hydrating Masque. These are easy to do at home once a week for dry or damaged hair in 5-15 minutes. Using moisture or moisture with protein will assist in keeping your hair’s health and manageability. (Some stylists use a disulfide mending OLAPLEX in salon as a treatment. Inquire at Emerson Salon with D’Arcy  for this service.)

Make sure to listen to your hair professional’s recommendations

on professional products for your hair type.

km

mo -Stylists work with many, many heads of hair a day and know which products will work best for your hair type and styling regimen. So listen and learn!

-Products sold from a professional salon are the highest quality, do not contain extra water and are more concentrated than other store brands. Don’t trust Amazon, Bartell’s, CVS or Costco for your hair products. They could be expired, contain high levels of bacteria or be counterfeit.

-Your stylist makes the recommendations that will help you recreate the look done inside the salon. Reward them by giving them the sale and not an online outlet or store. Your stylist has your hair’s health and style as a high priority in order for you to become or stay a returning customer.

-If a product doesn’t work for you, ask if you can exchange the product for one that does. No sense in keeping a product that you do not like the smell or isn’t optimal for you.

Your “Hair Resolutions” in 2016 can be upheld if you follow these easy steps. And remember- your hair is an investment! The more you put into your hair, the happier you will be with it!

Thursday, May 7th, 2015

Olaplex Revolution

olaplex1

In the cosmetology profession it is very important to stay current not only on trends and new application techniques but new innovations in chemical technology. There is a new system that is making hair colorists go NUTS! Its called OLAPLEX.

The system was designed by organic chemists who wanted to “solve problems” and the biggest challenge facing the haircoloring industry is the issue of breakage. More and more, people are asking for trends that demand getting the hair lighter, faster and with less breakage.

This is where Olaplex comes in. Hair is keratin proteins that are made up of disulfide bonds. These bonds are linked together and can get broken down during a lightening or haircoloring service. This system helps mend those bonds as they are broken so hair can accept more extreme changes with less likelihood of breakage. Its important to understand that it doesn’t guarantee against breakage but minimizes its probability.

Famous colorists from Tracy Cunningham, Guy Tang, Sally Hershberger and many others have been experimenting with the 3 step system and are loving the results. One of our owners, D’Arcy Harrison, picked some up to try and was impressed with the results.

Kristen had Natural Level 5 hair and wanted to try the new extreme color ombre trend. In order to achieve the look she asked for it required lifting the hair over 3 levels through some very orange and gold stages. The goal was to get her hair to level 10 and 11 so the semi-permanent blue/violet and silver would show up appropriately.

NOTE: Whenever the hair is lightened or darkened 3 levels or more this is called “COLOR CORRECTIVE WORK.” Special care and expertise is required in order to achieve predictable results. Additionally, the service can cost more because of extra time and product used due to its corrective nature.

D’Arcy combined the It&lyHairfashion Easily Blond Bleach and 40 vol with the No. 1 Olaplex Bond Multiplier. She then applied the bleach in a feathered balayage technique and put Kristen under heat for 10 min.

kristenbeforekristen after

D’Arcy was amazed! The hair on the ends was a level 10 and the midshaft was a level 7/8. So D’Arcy mixed up some more bleach and olaplex and applied to the darker areas and let process for another 20 min. at air temperature. Then the hair was rinsed and the No.2 Bond Perfector was added at the shampoo bowl for 5-10min. The hair was then roughly dried and the Pravana Vivids Blue and Violet were applied to the midshaft with Silver with a dash of Blue blended into the ends. Kristen was put under a medium heat dryer to drive in the semipermanent in order to make it last longer. The entire service was over 3 hours long. There is a No.3 to the Olaplex system for at home care following the service but Kristen opted for some MoroccanOil Hydrating Shampoo, Hydrating Conditioner, and Weightless Hydrating Mask as the argan oil moisture helps hair stay flexible and not brittle.

Kristen did suffer some breakage on the last 2 inches of her hair  (it was coiling and turning gummy) so D’Arcy did some strategic cutting and carving to eliminate the damage from the hair once dried and styled. But what is important is the hair got lighter faster, with less breakage and with more even results.

We will continue to keep experimenting in the salon with it as its very important to understand how to work with new products before using them on paying clients. If an individual indepependently run stylist  at Emerson Salon chooses to add this as an amenity it could be an add-on charge to any coloring service.

Want Olaplex at Emerson Salon? Tell us via our Twitter or Facebook pages!

Twitter: www.twitter.com/emersonsalon

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EmersonSalon